Base ginders/belt grinders/stone grinders DIY

carnold · Post by **carnold** » Wed May 26, 2010 1:36 am

Has anyone tried a floor sander inverted and fixed to a bench?

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:44 pm

i'm sure that would work about as well as the belt sander.
Again wet and silicon carbide are key.

carnold · Post by **carnold** » Thu May 27, 2010 9:03 pm

OK. But stay with me a for a bit. Silicon carbide SIC and aluminium oxide ALO are both very hard materials and relatively cheap to produce. That's why they are used for coated abrasives. The difference is in how the material fractures into smaller particles. I've been told that SIC breaks down into very sharp, long particles and ALO into more robust blocky particles. Therefore ALO is longer lasting but not a 'sharp' as SIC. But this is only part of the story.
Coated abrasives are made by applying adhesive to a base layer and coating that with particles (aligned electrostaticly with the points uppermost to the cutting face) and finally coating that with more adhesive. So the performance of 'sand' paper depends on a lot of factors. Backing material, abrasive type, abrasive size, abrasive density, adhesive type, etc.....
I’m no polymer expert but with a ski/snowboard base the aim is to create a flat surface across the board and retain the curve (camber) along the board. Without producing heat sufficient to damage the UHMWPE or epoxy. So mostly a wet drum sander is used. If the drum is flat along its axis the board should be as well. The water is introduced to lubricate the cutting action to prevent clogging and reduce the friction heating effect.
So if you are able to get a 12” floor sander with an open coat (widely spaced particles=no clog=less heat) and suitable grit size (100/120) and silicone carbide SIC grit(sharp=less friction=less heat). And flip the whole sander over. The challenge then is to prevent over heating.
To do this work out side in winter and keep the board moving at all times!!! OR kept he board moving over the drum, monitor carefully and take a break when things heat up toooooo much.

I’ve never used the floor sander idea but have used 6” wide, SIC, 100 grit, open coat belts on a linisher (or stroke sander/pad snader) without overheating to get an acceptable result. A bit of skill is required to get it all flat across the whole base of a snowboard but we have the machine at work and belts are $40. (20 odd boards and still the same belt)

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Thu May 27, 2010 11:12 pm

well after several hours of reading aussie web forums about linisher sanders and finding all about platen grinders I found this.

almost...

Idris · Post by **Idris** » Fri May 28, 2010 3:23 am

MontuckyMadman wrote:well after several hours of reading aussie web forums about linisher sanders and finding all about platen grinders I found this.

almost...

I have one, well almost (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... -sanders-2)

Don't they won't cope with being used as a ski base grinder, unless heavily modified.

Even then the bit you really need, a big diameter wide wheel is something it doesn't have.

I messed about with a temporary water feed using a car washer pump motor to stop the belt clogging. But the motor didn't have enough guts.

I ended up buying a 20 year old Montana grinder for 400 pounds instead - claims to have less power but really has so much more. Was a bit of a pig converting the 3 phase to run on single though.

carnold · Post by **carnold** » Fri May 28, 2010 3:56 am

As I wrote my last post I realised that I needed a video to show what I mean. I'll do one next week. IN the mean time look at these machined and imagine the board base up and held in place on a couple of blocks to straighten the base lengthwise.
A bit like this - http://westmd.craigslist.org/tls/1716328252.html

The table moves at right angles to the belt and presure is applied by a hand held pad. The table is adjustable vertically to suit the job.
c.

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Fri May 28, 2010 11:55 am

lots of good terms to learn in this thread.
Stroke sander ehh?
THanks
Bobbierobbie? Wheres that info? You give me a parts list and location and details and I can do some dye cuts for you?

heres a beater
http://cgi.ebay.com/Craftsman-Combinati ... 1c12be9ee1

huh nice
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wintersteiger-SEL-D ... 45f3138746

krp8128 · Post by **krp8128** » Fri May 28, 2010 2:42 pm

^^^^Shit, that's 30 minutes away from my parents house that i am moving back to next week. Guess i found a way to blow my graduation money....

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Fri May 28, 2010 3:39 pm

krp8128 wrote:^^^^Shit, that's 30 minutes away from my parents house that i am moving back to next week. Guess i found a way to blow my graduation money....

do it

krp8128 · Post by **krp8128** » Fri May 28, 2010 3:57 pm

hehe, my parents are on vacation next week....

They're going to kill me when they get back! You think they'll notice if I clean the garage first?

MontuckyMadman wrote:
krp8128 wrote:^^^^Shit, that's 30 minutes away from my parents house that i am moving back to next week. Guess i found a way to blow my graduation money....
do it

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:37 pm

K, did you get that giant green thing?

OK so someone stop me from blowing 100bucks on a used treadmill. Is this stoopid? 100 bucks on a heavy duty treadmill and 60 bucks to cover it in grip tape? I have a pump and sprayers from gardening. Take it a part and mod it. Is this retarded?

doughboyshredder · Post by **doughboyshredder** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:58 pm

MontuckyMadman wrote:K, did you get that giant green thing?

OK so someone stop me from blowing 100bucks on a used treadmill. Is this stoopid? 100 bucks on a heavy duty treadmill and 60 bucks to cover it in grip tape? I have a pump and sprayers from gardening. Take it a part and mod it. Is this retarded?

actually, that might be a damn good idea.

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:12 pm

jeebus man I expected you to be the voice of reason and dissension and negativity and tell me I am dumb. THanks

doughboyshredder · Post by **doughboyshredder** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:09 pm

I think the only concern may be clearance once you put sandpaper on the surface of the treadmill, and then of course coming up with a flat surface to position under the belt (assuming there is not a hard flat surface there already). I also doubt you'll be able to get a very high rpm, but I don't know how important that is, if you have the right sandpaper and are keeping it damp slow may actually be good.

Of course the only important question is : Will the airplane take off?

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:39 pm

doughboyshredder wrote:: Will the airplane take off?

HeHe

I dunno if you have sen a treadmill lately, maybe not given your moniker but they spin pretty damn fast. Like 5-7mph

I looked at the clearance, Clarence and it looks fine plenty of room once I remove the shroud.

If someone doesn't talk me down I may do this.

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Base ginders/belt grinders/stone grinders DIY