Ski Builders Forum

Falls, I rode the Volkl Katana from a couple years ago that was flat underfoot. That ski had plenty of pop and would carve trenches.

I think for a flat ski, if you make it stiff enough you can bend it you can still get that poppy feeing.

flat or ELP (elongated low profile rocker)?
You can still carve a solid turn on a flat camber ski (especially if the rocker isn't too aggressive and you still engage the sidecut) and I can see what you mean about it having energy/pop, but you have to work a lot harder to flex it and get that energy than a cambered ski. And then that stiffness maybe isn't as fun in powder? Everyone feels differently even on the same ski, that's why I guess we are in the business (LOL!) of making custom skis!
I like my continuously rockered skis in a lot of conditions, but I can definitely feel like I am working harder for snappy turns than on a ski with even a bit of camber.

Katana review at blister:
http://blistergearreview.com/gear-revie ... tana-191cm

The Katanas’ edge hold was very solid as I carved wide arching turns. In terms of stability through each apex they behave nearly like a fully cambered ski, lacking only the livelier, snappy feel that a cambered profile might promote in exiting a turn.

I really don't remember ELP vs flat and I only got toski them on groomers.

i personally hate soft skis. So as far as powder performance goes, if you want a dedicated powder ski that you are ONLY going to ski in consistent soft conditions, then go ahead and make a soft ski, they work great for that. If you are more likely to ski it in pow, then cut pow, variable conditions, corn, crust, crud, mank , bumps and trees then you better have some beef underfoot. A soft ski for me feels like the tip gets deflected and will be hooky and sloppy in anything but consistent pow. I feel the same way about super light skis, great for touring in consistent pow but put them on the resort or in variable conditions and the lack heft isn't do great. My powder and freeride designs usually weigh in around 4.5-4.75 lbs per ski which is right in the zone of not too heavy not too light in my book.

thank you all for help.
Make my first cambered skis last week . pull camber with heat differential. about 5 to 8 mm. probably because now it's summer and blankets went up to full temp in 7 min. this way with 25°F temperature differential reached the temperature at the same time.
Usually during the colder seasons take take 10 to 15 min. to reach the temperature. I can only wonder how all this would affect final camber

Your blankets have how many watts?

mammuth wrote:Your blankets have how many watts?

I don't remember offhand. Probably specifications mentioned in my Journal somewhere. However I remember testing the blankets and get 7.5 A in 220V because my controllers can handle up to 8 A

This would be around 1600 Watt

Just wondering about the environment temperature influence (bigger then i thought) on the heatup time, thats why im asking

hhhmmmm Can you translate

Lol, was little bit late yesterday.


You wrote that your heatup times are faster now compared to heatup during winter time (5-8min vs. 10-15min).

Didnt think that the effect is so big ... youre working in an unheated shop?

I don't know ... have nothing to compare this is my first time making camber. Last time it was October so it was mainly 60s this time 90s.

My shop is unheated in winter but I haven't done layup in the winter for a while and shop heated at layup time.

Actually this time was 10min on average in the pass 12 to 15 min.

While this thread still is up good time to ask. How well heat differential method work in reverse to create reverse camber?

Gravity is against you but coook top only will give you reverse.

Yeah top only heat will give you reverse.
I have one pair that was pressed in a mold with 10mm camber and heated only from the top and they came out with reverse camber!
I think also from observations that if you have carbon fibre just on top of the core then you increase camber and if you have carbon fibre just underneath the core then you reduce camber or create reverse camber. At least in my experience.

^Ditto.

Might want to pull them out of the press and set on their side to let them cool to shape without your mold or gravity acting on them.