Ski Builders Forum

Secretly, I do watch it and I blame my girlfriend for it.

I use a small metal clip/clamp thingy to stop the left right movement when routing. I then move it over a tiny bit and repeat. Chuck one on each side. and see what you think.

That other one looks really nice man, proud of you

You aussies crack me up.
Gav posts like i used to. Less angry than me.

Hey knights i use 3/4 inch bit and i can take off 3 mm easily at a pass parralell fiishing toolpath, takes 15 min per core 150mm x 1640mm at 6000mm per min. I use a 90percent stepover. Cores are perfect ready to press after i sand sidewall of course and flame.

Ok so I took your guys advice and decided to make a new core, so we just glued on the sidewalls and hopefully be profiling them soon! Also put the edges on my bases while I am waiting for the epoxy to dry.

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Atta boy, nice work!

Now just be VERY careful and take your time with this new core. You'll hate us all if you wreck it Remember the tips - climb milling, shallow passes, as rigid a bridge as possible, etc etc.

Also I have a quick question for graphics. We are skecthing it out on normal printer paper, but it is a big piece. So if I dont want the core to show through do I have to paint the back of the paper white? Also can we paint in our sketch with markers or paint, or is there a specific thing that only will bond. Also we will use a topsheet on top of it too. So what do I do to get the crispest image and best adhesion ????

Ok another question. Can I use 1/4 in plywood on top of my mold to get rid of any wavyness(which there is) or would that not work ??

twizzstyle wrote:

the.quass wrote:Shit yeah, What else am I going to be doing though? Watching so you think you can dance?

This is going to be my new canned-response anytime someone questions why I'm doing one of my weird projects.

HA! I love it!

infinityskis wrote:Ok another question. Can I use 1/4 in plywood on top of my mold to get rid of any wavyness(which there is) or would that not work ??

What sort of waviness are you talking about? The mold should be even across it's width. Any imperfections will come through even with some ply on top.

infinityskis wrote:Ok another question. Can I use 1/4 in plywood on top of my mold to get rid of any wavyness(which there is) or would that not work ??

1/4 inch plywood is too thick/stiff. Perhaps 1/8in (or the thinnest you can find) hardboard/mdf will work ok. I used hardboard at one time. It may crack in the tip area depending on how tight the tip radius is. Not using a cat track?

no i do use a cat track, but im talking about trying to take the wavyness out of my ribbed bottom mold.

Remind me - are you doing a firehose press, or vacuum?

If vacuum, some 1/8 hardwood or a thicker cassette may be enough. Although the vacuum may not be strong enough to pull those material down into the mold ribs, you'd need to fix the wood down to the ribs first, and pre-bend the cassette metal.

If you're doing a firehose, any imperfections in your mold will show up in your skis. I know some people do open rib molds in firehose presses, but I'm of the opinion that your molds should be solid with no gaps. Just like your core profiling, this is a case where you want to take your time to do it right. Smooth out your mold until it's perfect. This is even more important, as you may want to use this mold for many pairs, so get it right this first time and it'll be ready to go for follow-on pairs.

skidesmond wrote:I used hardboard at one time. It may crack in the tip area depending on how tight the tip radius is. Not using a cat track?

If you put a damp cloth over the tip and tail area of the hardboard overnight it will bend to whatever shape you want and dry smooth and hard again.

twizz im using a fire hose press and could i possibly use multiple peices for my mold ?? it's a ribbed mold not a solid one made of mdf.

And it had a few imperfections and my last pair had very wavy bases so would a couple more peices of hardbaord fix that??

Make it solid and sand out the imperfections. Adding wood/metal over it will help, but it will never get rid of the waviness.

Or you could press at a lower pressure.

Is this side-to-side waviness, or down the length of the mold?