EricW wrote:I was so enraged I had to leave the house. Really felt like a low blow.
You guys must be new to Ebay? That's basically how it always works.
If you want to build one from scratch, make sure you look at existing models to get an idea of how you should build it. Most are built very similar, and there's no need to re-invent the wheel so-to-speak. If you try to get clever you might spend a lot of money and time on something that won't work
You guys know that there are sites that you sign up for to do exactly that. They guarantee in the last 2 min dropping your bid to the max. I find that they like to really war in the last 20 sec. I'm not saying that's what happened but it could have. Don't get to upset it was probably a computer you got so mad at.
My issue on the grinder is working up a solid design that wouldn't cost in materials and serious time and tools that I couldn't just buy the used grind right in flagstaff and freight it. If its still up, he wanted 2500.
Or another one.
Gotta figure easy grand in materials, right?
Its not like I'm gonna really scrap it together.
Better off waterproofing a belt sander and using a cascading trough setup.
Even then that thing has to really move, I can't crack this nut and I think about it for a bit everyday.
But I''m obviously not a bright as some. Can't wait to see what people turn up with.
Hey, i am also looking at DIY base sanding machines. My work has a thicknesser that when the cover is take off exposes the perfectly flat roller with a belt wide enough for a snowboard. I will take photos tomorow and post to see if it is satisfactory to attack my board with. Only thing is it has 1 speed, i will check that too.
this year's present to myself was supposed to be a thicknesser
christmas found me totally broke so i kissed goodbye the Makita haunt, mulled and bitched and decided to build a drum sander for the new years good
the idea grew along with the ambition that the drum can grind wood as well as ptex
voila le freak:
now i m flying to my mother's cellar where i know there's a dead fish waiting to meet the drum
ill be back in few hours with pics and a bag full of PE hairy dust, fingers crossed
it
has waited 21 years for a base grind
167cm with 2cm tapper
it s my 2nd board, build it with a mechanical press in highscool days, 1989 christams (the first one was plain plywood hot waxed allover, base, top, sidewalls and had rubber straps for bindings).
well i got the edges for the fish from a broken kneisel ski -made probably in the 70s, and as they were shalow to the ptex, i got a high base. 1 day hand sanding with a block and the base was like if i hadnt touched it
it delamed after 2 seasons and it never got a flat base
until this lovely night,
detailed photo of the segmented edge
ha, i feel great!
I really have to say that is so awesome. Steadfastness of purpose in the face of time. You so rock. Thank you for sharing that. Have you checked out the guys at Nativ?
skidesmond, yes, bindings!
i wake up this morning with the will to restore, rip off skins, put inserts, relaminated and take the fish to the hill
now that will be a laugh
i dont know how to save the graphics though, i think they are part of it
anyway, it brought back so many memories that made my mood
about the drum:
frame is made from 20mm birch plywood. for adjusting planning thickness, the feeding table tilts around 2bolts at the exit end (where the vertical arrays of holes are).
the table is a hollowed box, 18mm cheapboard/melamine top, 20mm ply bottom, ribs and inner bracing, total thickness 10cm, came up quite rigid.
the motor is Korean 1hp, 240V & meant to run at 2800rpms non loaded. don’t know if it is revving right as I got it new for only 60e. knock wood, so far it spins.
it s strong enouph for skicores and for grindig bases, but i think a 1,5hp will be better for wider planks.
motor weights 17kg. I screwed it on a board that can tilt free around 2 bolts at the sides (in the first pic you can see the bolt near the lower pully).
the tilting axis is off center, away of the motors center mass, so the driving belt is kept tensioned by the motors weight
30mm shaft, self centering pillow blocks (9e each). had to shim a 0.2mm brass foil under right block to get the shaft parallel to table.
al pullies were quite expensive 24e both. they have a 1/2.5 dia ratio to give ~65kmph grinding speed.
the drum, 30cm dia, 44 cm wide (enough for a kiteboard core), was the most fun to make -I enjoyed so much building it, I just wanna build every kind of percussion shells now.
It has an inner frame of 4 disks wrapped with 4 layers of 3mm birch plywood (see it finished, I m pretty sure 2 layers would have been good & 3 more than enough).
The first layer is bond to the disks with pu glue, the rest are laminated with epoxy.
I used the router bridge and a simple jig to route the inner disks true around the shaft.
after laminating the drum with ply, I grind the drum true against the table by sliding betwen them a melamine board with a piece of sanding belt glued on it.
i went with the hollowed plywood drum as I had plenty of scrap 3mm birch from building kiteskims.
before I press start button for first time was really worried for balancing problems/ vibrations etc, but it came very smooth spinning and silent.
anyhow I cant believe its actually well weighted, probably the beefy shaft and blocks can just take the beating.
grinding wood even with 40 grit paper makes tons of dust clouds so a dust hood is mandatory.
i made the one above with 3mm ply and 0.5mm carton laminated with scrap glass and old resin. it can tilt to follow the table so to keep a zero gap from the grinned plank.
works quite well, some dust still escapes but it is alot less than in any other power tool i have.
there are few more things to do, paint the drum with resin and built a water hood are in priority
COsurfer, i still think the makita is prettytier, lol
thanks anyway
Brazen, do you have a link for that?
Last edited by fa on Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:07 am, edited 6 times in total.
