Profile advice

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rockaukum
Posts: 558
Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:23 am
Location: Placerville area

Profile advice

Post by rockaukum »

I made a bone head mistake on the profile for my latest ski and need to ask for input.
I profiled the tips too thin. Less that 1mm and was looking for 2mm at the area where the core meets the tip spacer. Normally I would let it go and see how it rides. However this is the same dimensions as the last ski with a different mix in the wood core. So I would like to see the difference between the two.
I am currently thinking of placing estra glass in the tip area to compensate for the thin tip. Another idea is to carry the tip spacer material further down but I really do not want to do this. (I may try a new material provided by teleman and don't think carring the spacer material further down into the ski would be good).
So anyway, If others have experienced this and have a good solution please type away!
PS the other ski has the same problem and is great in the powder but not good when on the packed groomers. No tip = too soft and no grip.
Thanks for the ideas.
rockaukum
sammer
Posts: 933
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:37 pm
Location: Fernie B.C.
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Post by sammer »

what about just glueing some veneer to the bottom of your core?
then adjusting the middle down to what you want eg sanding or planing?
just a thought.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...

Best of luck to you. (uneva)
G-man
Posts: 600
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:58 pm
Location: northern sierra nevada

Post by G-man »

Awhile back, I set my router bit too deep when profiling a core and didn't notice it until I had profiled about 12 inches from the end of the core. My mistake also resulted in a core section that was about 1mm thick, but I was planning on 2.5mm. I just made a piece of pine veneer by running a 6 inch wide board through the band saw, then glued and clamped the veneer in place. This core had UHMW side walls, so I trimmed the veneer back just a bit from the side wall area so that the lay-up resin and a bit of extra glass would eventually fill in the side wall area. Then, I re-profiled. Everything turned out fine. The ski had a cloth graphic layer, so the patch was never visible.

G-man
Truckee Joe
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:37 pm
Location: Donner Lake

torisonal stiffness

Post by Truckee Joe »

I just did that with my foam cores, too thin in the tip and the tip was supper flexy. But i think i like it because it acts like a rocker in any soft pow. but then i feel like i have no edge grip when on hard pack.

also sorry to steal this thread. but i was wondering what kind of glass i should put in the ski to help with torisonal stiffness. Or do i need a titanal layer before the glass. Ya i know all you hard cores want wood, but my spyder foam skis wiegh like 1.5lbs per ski. The next ones will also have carbon fiber rods to help.
plywood
Posts: 499
Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:13 am
Location: wilen, switzerland
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Post by plywood »

+1 for veneer. easiest and cheapest way.

@truckee joe: i don`t think that titanal is really necessary. to add more torsional stiffness you can either use more biaxial fibreglass (instead of triaxial the biaxial won`t add much longitudinal stiffness) or do it like it`s done on snowboards: torsion forks. just get some 20-25mm wide carbon or fibreglass bands. then you can align one from the right side in the tip to the left side underfoot to the right side in tail and the other band opposite. even if carbon is better in tension than in compression i`d recommend you to get 200g/m2 heavy carbon bands with about 20mm width - they really stiffen up the ski torsionally.
the "downside" is that such torsion forks also stiffen up the ski longitudinally. so the best is to use both, an additional layer of biaxial tissue AND torsion forks.
and i`m looking forward to hear more about your experiment with the carbon rods,i`ve thought of something similar once too ;)
plywood freeride industries - go ply, ride wood!
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