Many thanks to Idris, and Davide for ideas, wood core for the first pair, and help.
First pair built near the end of 06'-07' season. Dimensions are 125-100-116 and 160cm, slightly lifted tail. Second pairs were made in the same kitchen in Chamonix but with more shape and lighter weight with home built wood core as well. Dimension for this is 120-88-108 and 160cm, with a flat tail. This makes it easier to stick into the snow. It ended up with a longer front running length. Skis great, and turns well and fun, but sometimes I feel the front running length is a touch long when the going gets tough OR I'll just find the right way of skiing it.
I'm sorry these links are in other forums as well.
Ski Building 2007 and since then
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26067326@N ... 792245888/
Ski building Season 2007-08
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26067326@N ... 775321960/
Comparison 07/08
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26067326@N ... 880091120/
Cheers!
MaRuMo
My first and second kitchen built skis
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
Not entirely important, but forgot to add anywhere that there's about 100days on the first wide pair I made, and more or less 20days on the wood palate pair. Looking into the weather and friend's schedule to see when to head up Mont Blanc with one of them after a practice run on the smaller Tacul maybe. I've seen some reach to top now, not sure about Mt. Blanc yet but I'm sure by now and so many people attempting someone would have made it.
Not sure which ski to take up... I would take one or the other for different reasons. The new one is much lighter to carry, but the old one I'm more used to. I could just go out and practice on the new ones more often.
MaRuMo
Not sure which ski to take up... I would take one or the other for different reasons. The new one is much lighter to carry, but the old one I'm more used to. I could just go out and practice on the new ones more often.
MaRuMo
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Gougouneux
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:36 pm
- Location: Aix en Provence, France
Hello!
Nice work!
It seems, from the pictures, that you have bought the same planer as I have "Berlan BDH2000-330"
I had many troubles with it at the beginning but most have been fixed (especially the blades which were so corroded that the motor just couldn't make it turn!!!)
I still have one very annoying problem: the planer doesn't plan "flat".
There is almost one millimeter of difference between the left and the right of the wood core, which becomes a problem when considering the tips and tail!
Have you faced that?
Any suggestion?
Nice work!
It seems, from the pictures, that you have bought the same planer as I have "Berlan BDH2000-330"
I had many troubles with it at the beginning but most have been fixed (especially the blades which were so corroded that the motor just couldn't make it turn!!!)
I still have one very annoying problem: the planer doesn't plan "flat".
There is almost one millimeter of difference between the left and the right of the wood core, which becomes a problem when considering the tips and tail!
Have you faced that?
Any suggestion?
Yes. Mine was out by more than 1mm, probably nearer 2.Gougouneux wrote:Hello!
Nice work!
It seems, from the pictures, that you have bought the same planer as I have "Berlan BDH2000-330"
I had many troubles with it at the beginning but most have been fixed (especially the blades which were so corroded that the motor just couldn't make it turn!!!)
I still have one very annoying problem: the planer doesn't plan "flat".
There is almost one millimeter of difference between the left and the right of the wood core, which becomes a problem when considering the tips and tail!
Have you faced that?
Any suggestion?
Fixed it by taking the drive rod (with bevel gears at each end) off the bottom that connects the left and righthad side winding mechanism. I took the shiny base plate off to get an accurate measurement on the cast base. Then wind both sides sepraetly till they are the same height before re connection drive rod.
After doing this with MartinJern it planned flat.
Gougouneux: Hi. Wow that's unfortunate with the corroded blades. The planer we used Idirs bought managed to plane a lot and still going. Yes we did have the problem of it not planing flat. As Idris described, it is easy to fix. Luckily it's built in a simple way, to take apart and put it back together. Easier to have two set of hands when adjusting the height level!
I do recommend removing the metal plate as it won't lay flat as shavings accumulate underneath it. Hope it will fix all the problem you've been having. Also it may help to remove 'the black switch' that regulates the over heating of the planer. It kept shutting down, and sometimes often. We were working outside in the cold for the planing so we figured removing the annoying button will solve the problem and it did
I do recommend removing the metal plate as it won't lay flat as shavings accumulate underneath it. Hope it will fix all the problem you've been having. Also it may help to remove 'the black switch' that regulates the over heating of the planer. It kept shutting down, and sometimes often. We were working outside in the cold for the planing so we figured removing the annoying button will solve the problem and it did
Correction
Today I've compared the Atomic Sweet Daddy 163cm and this wood palate ski out of curiosity.
Instead of the new creation being 160cm as intended, it was actually exactly the same length and running length as the Atomic Sweet Daddy (the orange generation), BUT the boot center is 2.5cm set back on the wood skis than the Atomics. No wonder it's been awkward to ski on the steeps and heavy lumpy conditions. In powder it's no problem though, and even tracked re-frozen grounds if I take it steady. On the piste it's a fun carving type ski, but I'm still scared of going too fast, unless I move the bindings forward.
I hope to put up recent ski tour pictures on the photo gallery and on flicker in the near future when I have good internet access with a power source. Till then it'll be sporadic, or non-existent unfortunately. Sorry.
Instead of the new creation being 160cm as intended, it was actually exactly the same length and running length as the Atomic Sweet Daddy (the orange generation), BUT the boot center is 2.5cm set back on the wood skis than the Atomics. No wonder it's been awkward to ski on the steeps and heavy lumpy conditions. In powder it's no problem though, and even tracked re-frozen grounds if I take it steady. On the piste it's a fun carving type ski, but I'm still scared of going too fast, unless I move the bindings forward.
I hope to put up recent ski tour pictures on the photo gallery and on flicker in the near future when I have good internet access with a power source. Till then it'll be sporadic, or non-existent unfortunately. Sorry.
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Chicagoskier11
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:45 am
- Location: Denver
nice
I just wanted to say that I want to someday do a ski run where I have to climb a ladder first. Sweet shots, beautiful local.
You know where there's one now 
But this was more because nothing else was open yet at the time, and just wanted to check out the condition on the Mer de Glace where you normally end up and you climb 'up' the ladders mainly at the end of the season when the snow no longer reaches the gondola, or operating.
I've been ending up there at ladders 3 times this week, and think the last run for me was yesterday unless I'm stuck with no other option for some reason. The glacier is very bare now, slushy snow in patches, more water skiing, and weaving through rocks, over crevasses and some stream (melt water) rattling over hard scratchy glacier ice...
But this was more because nothing else was open yet at the time, and just wanted to check out the condition on the Mer de Glace where you normally end up and you climb 'up' the ladders mainly at the end of the season when the snow no longer reaches the gondola, or operating.
I've been ending up there at ladders 3 times this week, and think the last run for me was yesterday unless I'm stuck with no other option for some reason. The glacier is very bare now, slushy snow in patches, more water skiing, and weaving through rocks, over crevasses and some stream (melt water) rattling over hard scratchy glacier ice...
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skiingfreak
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 8:33 pm
I think I have the set up in the flicker pictures. If not I can dig one out.
You need to make sure you have the tape tight when applying it onto the plastic, to help it from wrinkling, creating a source of leakage.
We've let it run overnight. The hand made pressure gage will control it, so you can sleep.
Good luck, have fun.
You need to make sure you have the tape tight when applying it onto the plastic, to help it from wrinkling, creating a source of leakage.
We've let it run overnight. The hand made pressure gage will control it, so you can sleep.
Good luck, have fun.
Formica for the mold surface, waxed with some mold release wax.
For the bag I buy some vacuum bagging material, which is stretchable, it's not that expensive and make life easier. To seal everything I use "dumb-dumb" tape (butyl tape), not that cheap but really efficient against leaks. When you open your bag after the cure is done, if you go very slowly and take care you ran reuse the tape and the bag.
For the bag I buy some vacuum bagging material, which is stretchable, it's not that expensive and make life easier. To seal everything I use "dumb-dumb" tape (butyl tape), not that cheap but really efficient against leaks. When you open your bag after the cure is done, if you go very slowly and take care you ran reuse the tape and the bag.