Anybody tried pouring their own urethane sidewalls?
Ride is using slimewalls which are urethane. Lib is using a self healing polymer which they are pouring for the cygnus model.
Any ideas?
Urethane Sidewalls
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bobbyrobie
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- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:17 pm
Well... i have used urethane for sidewalls. Ummmmmmmmm lot of work to do. Casting sidewall can be a pain. On the other side urethane bonds really well with epoxy.
Take a looK:http://www.grafsnowboards.com/phpbb2/vi ... highlight=
Take a looK:http://www.grafsnowboards.com/phpbb2/vi ... highlight=
RIDE WITH PRIDE
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doughboyshredder
- Posts: 1354
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I didn't even search graf. I get sick of all the repeat question threads. There are probably 100 threads about how to load snocad.
Anyway, I was thinking about casting the pu directly on to the core, using a primer on the wood, so that the pu would wrap continuously around the entire core. There are also a lot of different additives that I was considering trying to stiffen up the pu without eliminating all of the dampening.
Anyway, I was thinking about casting the pu directly on to the core, using a primer on the wood, so that the pu would wrap continuously around the entire core. There are also a lot of different additives that I was considering trying to stiffen up the pu without eliminating all of the dampening.
Ok, but be careful.... use only urethane rubber.... you can harden it up till 90 a or more with additives...and it looks really well if you use pigmentation (i used orange) . Good option for powder or park skis. If you are planning to build something for hard pack (that was my idea), forget it.
Don´t use pu plastic.... it looks really well (except for some bubbles) but it chips away when it´s cold.
i´ve tried everything for sidewalls... uhmwpe, pu, abs.... and i think wood is the best option for me... easy, cheap and durable.
Don´t use pu plastic.... it looks really well (except for some bubbles) but it chips away when it´s cold.
i´ve tried everything for sidewalls... uhmwpe, pu, abs.... and i think wood is the best option for me... easy, cheap and durable.
RIDE WITH PRIDE
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doughboyshredder
- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
Chaka, I have to repair the sidewalls on my homemade split all the time, I would think wood would be a pain in the ass, but it seems like quite a few builders prefer it. How are you sealing it, and do you have to retreat the wood repeatedly?
Here is the urethane I was thinking could work good: http://www.eagerplastics.com/ure.htm
And, here is their page for additives : http://www.eagerplastics.com/fillers.htm
I am specifically interested in the aluminum powder and the micro balloons.
Also a bit curious about the plasticizer.
I would think a 90a urethane with the right mix of the aluminum powder could give you a sidewall a bit stiffer in feel than a 90a but still with superior dampening. The micro balloons could also stiffen it up, but I have no idea how that could affect the feel of the board.
I also wonder how using different fillers in the epoxy could affect the bond, strength, and weight.
I try and stay far away from hardpack. When I do have to ride it on the out trail, all I can think of is how I wish my feet didn't hurt.
Here is the urethane I was thinking could work good: http://www.eagerplastics.com/ure.htm
And, here is their page for additives : http://www.eagerplastics.com/fillers.htm
I am specifically interested in the aluminum powder and the micro balloons.
Also a bit curious about the plasticizer.
I would think a 90a urethane with the right mix of the aluminum powder could give you a sidewall a bit stiffer in feel than a 90a but still with superior dampening. The micro balloons could also stiffen it up, but I have no idea how that could affect the feel of the board.
I also wonder how using different fillers in the epoxy could affect the bond, strength, and weight.
I try and stay far away from hardpack. When I do have to ride it on the out trail, all I can think of is how I wish my feet didn't hurt.
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MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
Not that this has anything to do with what you are discussing, but, is there a specific way to load snocad?
Seemed to work ok I had to load it a few different times.
I used it and tried to export to a dxf and I loaded it to a plotter and only got what looked like tip and tail spacers, instead of the full shape.
The profile came through just not the sidecut shape.
Seemed to work ok I had to load it a few different times.
I used it and tried to export to a dxf and I loaded it to a plotter and only got what looked like tip and tail spacers, instead of the full shape.
The profile came through just not the sidecut shape.
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doughboyshredder
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knightsofnii
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- Location: NJ USA
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i'll try to keep this on topic by saying urethane here and there 
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i think when snocad creates a urethane dxf file, it creates different layers.
when I urethane did it, I got three layers: "core", "board", and something else, maybe the tip fillers.
so just your tip fillers probably means that that was the only layer active when you printed or something. You're a thane
. i think when snocad creates a urethane dxf file, it creates different layers.
when I urethane did it, I got three layers: "core", "board", and something else, maybe the tip fillers.
so just your tip fillers probably means that that was the only layer active when you printed or something. You're a thane
Doug
Has anyone tried planing down the cast urethane? If so, couldnt you just cast the sidewalls flat with the core prior to profiling? Then there are plenty of urethane bond-promoters that could be applied to the surfaces before layup to assure a good bond with the epoxy. Then, how would the urethane cut with the router when you go to shape the sidewall?