was curious how most of you were keeping the base from moving. I have been cutting small pieces off excess edge material and using that to keep it centered but have been having issues with it jumping on top of the edge during layup/pressing. so i would like to try something else. I have heard people using double back tape. would this not cause the base to be uneven?
what other methods are out there?
base movement
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MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
double tape leaves a mark in the base. You could make a ghetto cassett but that sounds like it is not working well. I use super glue one good bead in the middle. You have to have an area free of mold release on the AL for it to stick. Seams you have to let it dry for a while with weight on it and can release very easily if bumped.
I will try hot glue next time as super glue really bonds well with the base and takes a while to grind.
I will try hot glue next time as super glue really bonds well with the base and takes a while to grind.
Double sided masking tape, three small pieces 2 inches long each.
This technique minimizes base indentations:
I first apply three 2 inch long pieces of double sided masking tape to the bottom of the base material.
Then lay down a layer of blue 3M painters tape from a 6 inch wide roll.
Then I cut the blue tape around the double tape and remove it.
Finally I cut thru the release liner on the double tape just inside it's periphery to reveal a sticky surface for the eventual 1 mil plastic sheeting I use to contain the lay-up. I stick the plastic sheeting down to these sticky areas and carefully cut thru it to reveal the just double tape in the center. This is the sticky surface that secures my base assembly to my press plate.
Here is a close -up photo showing one such tape area:
The end result of all this is that my tape marks are almost invisible in the finished ski.
Good luck,
-S
This technique minimizes base indentations:
I first apply three 2 inch long pieces of double sided masking tape to the bottom of the base material.
Then lay down a layer of blue 3M painters tape from a 6 inch wide roll.
Then I cut the blue tape around the double tape and remove it.
Finally I cut thru the release liner on the double tape just inside it's periphery to reveal a sticky surface for the eventual 1 mil plastic sheeting I use to contain the lay-up. I stick the plastic sheeting down to these sticky areas and carefully cut thru it to reveal the just double tape in the center. This is the sticky surface that secures my base assembly to my press plate.
Here is a close -up photo showing one such tape area:
The end result of all this is that my tape marks are almost invisible in the finished ski.
Good luck,
-S
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Head Monkey
- Posts: 310
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- Location: Carnation, WA
- Contact:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... formation/
I'll assume an aluminum mold skin here.
Leave a thin strip, anywhere from 1-3" wide and a good 12" from each end of the board, on your mold skin without wax (or whatever release agent you use.) Align your base to the mold and make a few marks for easy alignment. Remove the base, and spray Super 77 onto the strip of untreated mold skin. Not much... just one quick pass. Give it one minute or so to tack up. Now lay down your base, and press to set.
This will survive you messing with it pretty much any way you can imagine. You can press it, with heat, and it will still release later quite easily. Most of the glue will remain on the mold. You can remove it with any number of solvents later… I like mineral spirits. No marks on the base.
Enjoy...
I'll assume an aluminum mold skin here.
Leave a thin strip, anywhere from 1-3" wide and a good 12" from each end of the board, on your mold skin without wax (or whatever release agent you use.) Align your base to the mold and make a few marks for easy alignment. Remove the base, and spray Super 77 onto the strip of untreated mold skin. Not much... just one quick pass. Give it one minute or so to tack up. Now lay down your base, and press to set.
This will survive you messing with it pretty much any way you can imagine. You can press it, with heat, and it will still release later quite easily. Most of the glue will remain on the mold. You can remove it with any number of solvents later… I like mineral spirits. No marks on the base.
Enjoy...
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
I'm using the same idea as SHIF but I put down the blue painters tape first
then cut out 3 small areas for the double sided carpet tape.
The base sticks so well it's a real bear to get it off the mold.
I'm vacuuming so it doesn't really leave any indication when I'm done.
Hope this helps. Good luck and let us know how it all turns out.
sam
then cut out 3 small areas for the double sided carpet tape.
The base sticks so well it's a real bear to get it off the mold.
I'm vacuuming so it doesn't really leave any indication when I'm done.
Hope this helps. Good luck and let us know how it all turns out.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
We use 2 to 4 inches of hot glue in 4 different places on each ski. I bet you could use less or more and it wouldn't matter. I put it roughly 1 foot back and 1 foot forward of the middle of the ski. Comes off plenty easy. It is attaching to UHWM though so I don't know if this would work on aluminun. Maybe somebody else can comment on that. We also do not use heat. Good luck. I just looked and I don't have a picture that shows this.
I do the same as Head Monkey in that I use 3M spray adhesive. I spray a heavy coat through in two generous passes.
I don't have mold release either - instead I use 3M painters masking plastic (2 meter roll) with the writing side facing away from the ski. I spray the aluminum sheet on the top of the base mold with adhesive, carefully lay down the painters plastic, and then do another coat of spray adhesive and put the base directly on that.
Problems: If you have the writing side toward the ski it will stick to it, which is more of a problem when it sticks to the top. And if you go beyond 180 degrees f, the plastic starts to melt to the base, which isn't too bad of a problem if you have access to a good grinder.
I don't have mold release either - instead I use 3M painters masking plastic (2 meter roll) with the writing side facing away from the ski. I spray the aluminum sheet on the top of the base mold with adhesive, carefully lay down the painters plastic, and then do another coat of spray adhesive and put the base directly on that.
Problems: If you have the writing side toward the ski it will stick to it, which is more of a problem when it sticks to the top. And if you go beyond 180 degrees f, the plastic starts to melt to the base, which isn't too bad of a problem if you have access to a good grinder.
Brian