Ski Builders Forum

I have been designing a bit with a local company and they are ready to start production for us. This bit uses a standard Insert that sells for around $3/ea.
My order is currently for 2 but if i can up the order we can get a better price.

I dont understand what it is supposed to do.

nick wrote:I dont understand what it is supposed to do.

I keep reading your posts and coming to the conclusion that you have no idea what you are doing. It profiles the sidewalls to 10 degress using a router run along the base of the ski.


heliski,

What is the total cost right now?

I work for a tooling company that makes a lot of carbide and carbide insert cutters. I did up a design last winter for a few bits, but we really had no idea how well they were balanced and what they would do at 30,000 RPM in a router.

Ill have a quote today. he said for 1 it would be $250/ea, but the cost would drop with the more we buy. im hoping there around $175/ea for 5 or more.
This is by no means for some one who wants to build 1 or 2 sticks. although it will increase quality on those 2 sticks should you want one.

This tool will be balanced and capable of 25,000+ RPM. They use a Haimer Tool Dynamic TD 2002 to balance.

its funny that Nick has boards for sale on his website but doesnt know what tools to use to build them.

heliski989 wrote:Ill have a quote today. he said for 1 it would be $250/ea, but the cost would drop with the more we buy. im hoping there around $175/ea for 5 or more.
This is by no means for some one who wants to build 1 or 2 sticks. although it will increase quality on those 2 sticks should you want one.

This tool will be balanced and capable of 25,000+ RPM. They use a Haimer Tool Dynamic TD 2002 to balance.

Holy $hit that is expensive! I'm building quite a few skis, and this


is only about $150 and is more versatile.

thanks for the info though.

heliski989 wrote: its funny that Nick has boards for sale on his website but doesn't know what tools to use to build them.

Utterly hilarious. Nick, sorry to say, but people like you are making the search function on this site useless. Read more, post less. There is enough info on this site now that if you can't figure out the basics on your own you probably shouldn't be building skis...

Holy $hit that is expensive!

Thats what happens. Now you also have to figure in the $200 router that you need to spin it, and a $300 table to make everything worth while.

In the end it will pay off. but it will take about 70 pair to do that.

That PC trimmer is perfect and a multitasker. Alton Brown would be proud!

We have this bit available now:

http://skibuilders.com/cart/products/Si ... -21-0.html

25 degree bevel with a 1/4" shank. Carbide tipped.

if there is interest for different bevel angles, I could get those made too.

-kelvin

Correct me if I'm wrong [major noob], but whats for sale in the SB store [25 degrees], and what you designed above [idk the angle, I think 10º] is the same as this, which is also 25 degrees, but shorter than the SB store's

http://www.toolking.com/makita-733128-4 ... re=default

And should I/can I buy this for my router?

Kelvin
We have been using a Fruend bit that is very close to that.
looks like this


We are just running in to problems with the quality of a braised bit. ie hard to sharpen, barring to small, to much fatigue in the 1/4" shaft.

Thats why we are going with the inserts.

krp8128 wrote:

heliski989 wrote:Ill have a quote today. he said for 1 it would be $250/ea, but the cost would drop with the more we buy. im hoping there around $175/ea for 5 or more.
This is by no means for some one who wants to build 1 or 2 sticks. although it will increase quality on those 2 sticks should you want one.

This tool will be balanced and capable of 25,000+ RPM. They use a Haimer Tool Dynamic TD 2002 to balance.

Holy $hit that is expensive! I'm building quite a few skis, and this


is only about $150 and is more versatile.

thanks for the info though.

$175… wow… especially for such a single-purpose tool.

Yea, you know, I’ve posted this a bunch of times on this site, but lots of peoples still want to go out and find a special bit to do the work. I have no idea why, but to each his own.

Here’s one last ditch effort: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/HM ... sidewalls/

HeadMonkey - how far from the tip and tail do you run that sidewall trimmer? If you stop before you go all the way around, how do you finish the tip and tails (we do with a belt sander)? Also, what angle do you like to make your bevel? I am thinking about picking one of these up or just putting a wedge under the small colt router I have to do something similar to the laminate trimmer. Are you going to do an in depth writeup about finishing the boards? That is where I need the most improvement.

I run the trimmer just past the effective edge, and gently pull it away from the edge as I get to the end, and gently work it in as I approach. I leave the nose and tail pretty much straight, and I blend the bevel from where the router stops to the nose/tail by hand with a file and a bit of sand paper, if necessary. My angle is somewhere around 10-12 degrees.

I’d like to see someone go the wedge route and report back… seems really promising, and really cheap.

Yes, I can do an in-depth write up about finishing. If there’s specific things you or anyone else would like to see, just shoot me a quick PM and I’ll add it to the list.

metsrule008 wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong

you are wrong

I used a wedge under my laminate trimmer so that it was beveled and it worked fine. I like using a laminate trimmer, because you can use different shaped bits.

After buying the GRizzly bits but figuring that the bearing will not be close enough to the cutting edge... I went with the wedge under my "big router" (by opposition to laminate trimmer) as Mike suggested.
IT WORKS BEAUTIFULLY, it's super easy to make, easy to use, it's fast, and the result is great.
I made my wedge out of a scrap piece of 2x6 from my top mold, so it's super cheap too ! I'll take pictures tonight.

Ben