Norsk Alpine

Document your personal work here. Show photos, movies, and share your secrets.

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knightsofnii
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Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 am
Location: NJ USA
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Post by knightsofnii »

when i get my planer-mold I'll post it up to show you guys how you can have someone cnc this for you.
Doug
Jekul
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Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:06 pm
Location: Arvada, CO
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Post by Jekul »

After all of the suggestions and discussions here I took a step back from my core-profiling and decided I needed to make a better jig to get a good methodology down. After looking at the cribs you all have made I took a trip to home depot and bought some 3/4" mdf and made a decent crib. CAFactory and powderho...I am very glad you suggested making the crib parallel for the first 4-6". I think that is the key to reducing snipe or having the tip and tail eaten by the planer when put through.

I decided to scrap my old cores and practice making a new pair out of an old cedar deck board I had in my garage. The "practice" pair turned out so good that I'll be using them in my next build! I then went on to make a 12" wide profile that will be used underneath the mold for camber. NO MORE SHIMS.

Powderho - To calculate the forces seen by the press I took the width of my hose laying flat, assumed it would be that wide when inflated, then calculated the resultant forces for the full 8' length at 50psi. The over-estimation of contact area (both length and width) is my safety factor for this build. The FEA analysis calculated a safety factor around 1.5, so I was confident with continuing the build. Also, the pallet rack I used is refered to as "Structural" or "Seismic", and the standard recommendation for each beam pair is 13,000lb. , significantly more than the rating for teardrop style (4000lb).
In the end I still stand behind a wall when I inflate the bladders, 100,000 pounds of force is nothing to mess with!
Jekul
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Norsk Update

Post by Jekul »

I've made some significant changes since my last journal post. Namely moving from MN to CO. Unfortunately it looks like I lost some of my touch. I had a few problems getting my air bladder to coform to my mold, but I think my primary issue was too much heat.

I'd appreciate any feedback from someone who's seen this issue before, or has a likely guess. I knew I had a problem as soon as I took them out of the mold... For reference, the "ski" on the left is actually the base I ripped off the ski after my realization that it was a total failure. (I used Rhino epoxy and was able to reclaim my cores in about 3 minutes! Not good).

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I had my TC stuffed in near the rear tip of the ski, and I'm planning to move it to the front-center of the ski's during my next attempt.

I also tried a camber-mold used my profiling 9mm of camber into a sheet of MDF, manufactured with the help of COSurfer. Overall the camber turned out fantastic, and I'm excited to try this method again.

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powderho
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 7:02 am
Location: Sandy, UT

Post by powderho »

Looks like you way over cooked your skis to me. I did this on the first pair I pressed with heat. Mine didn't turn out that bad, but they had huge blisters on them. They were also smoking pretty good when I took them out of the press. I only have heat on the bottom and I had my TC located on the top, tail end of the cassette. I was thinking this would be last place to heat up to full temp (and it probably was) so I wanted to make sure it reached 175 degrees. Well by doing that, the bottom center of my ski was probably around 250 degrees. P-tex melts right around there. There's not that much temperature difference between the ideal cure temp for the epoxy and P-tex's melting point. I started using multiple TC's to monitor the temp in various places. My current setup has the controlling TC placed bottom, center--the hottest part. I don't want that part getting hotter than 175. The top of the cassette will only reach about 145 degrees by doing this. I just leave them in for a bit longer; around 2 hrs under heat.
Jekul
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Post by Jekul »

Powderho,

Thanks for the input. My epoxy said the cure temp was around 200-210F for 2 hours. With the TC in the tail of the ski it would make sense that I had a poor heat distribution under pressure. I'll be procuring different epoxy for the next pair, definitely with a lower cure temp.
Jekul
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Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:06 pm
Location: Arvada, CO
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Post by Jekul »

New epoxy: Check
T/C placed in correct position: Check


And after 30 minutes at temperature and pressure: Voila!

Introducing the Norsk Odin 176. 136-110-123 25.5m sidecut.

Durasurf 4000
20oz Triax
Cedar core with Maple sidewalls 2-9.5-2
20oz Triax
20 oz Triax in binding area
Black Walnut

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These are crappy cell phone picks from the back of my truck this morning. Two more coats of UV Urethane and they'll be ready for the first base grind. I hope to get some better pictures up wheny they're "prettier."
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