Ski Builders Forum

I want to try a partially wrapped edge like lib's.

How do you think they get that nose/tail curve without a metal edge to saw against? Some kind of jig or template, clamped in place so they can run a saw or router bit against it?

That's what i'm thinking, but i seems like there might be a simpler way. Making a template to follow the curve, as well as the nose/tail kick, sounds like a pain but maybe a piece of plywood in the heated press would bend to the shape i need?

Any words of advice?

Are you just talking about not having the edge go all the way around the tip/tail? And then how to cutout the ski shape?

That is how probably 90% of the people on here do it, to save the effort in bending the edges. Just draw the shape, cut it as best you can and sand it nice and smooth. It doesn't have to be perfect, its all for aesthetics.

Unless I'm missing something here?

This is how I do a partial wrap. I think I got it from Shopvac. I'm doing a 3/4 wrap on the ski I'm making now.

I modified my template by adding 2 layers of PTex Base material to the tip area of the template. Then I rout out the base, being careful going around the tip. Then I clean up the notched area with a razor to make it a clean and square to accept the metal edge.

Modified template:








The base w/ edges:



Before I do the layup I'll all 1 layer of Ptex base material as filler in the space where the 3/4 wrap is. Could also use extra FG as filler to.

When it comes time to cut off all the flashing use the Ptex edge around the tip as your guide, since there is no metal edge there.

If you need more info I'll take more pics as my build moves (slowly) along.

twizzstyle wrote:Are you just talking about not having the edge go all the way around the tip/tail? And then how to cutout the ski shape?

That is how probably 90% of the people on here do it, to save the effort in bending the edges. Just draw the shape, cut it as best you can and sand it nice and smooth. It doesn't have to be perfect, its all for aesthetics.

Unless I'm missing something here?

Only thing missing is I'm looking for a really clean finish. Just wondering hw the pros do it.

Thanks, Skidesmond. i guess thats what i was thinking of something similar, except using a guide to route the flashing afterwards. I'm a little baffled how to get a good guide knowing that the nose and tail have kick, but it can;tbe too difficult.

Anyone know for sure how lib do it? I doubt it's CNC'd or anything.

There's a very fast speed vid of how mervin build boards in That's it, That's all. I haven't studied it but check it out, you may be able to see how they trim the flash.

Alex13 wrote:There's a very fast speed vid of how mervin build boards in That's it, That's all. I haven't studied it but check it out, you may be able to see how they trim the flash.

Good idea! They don;t seem to be using a guide at all...maybe they cut cut around the ptex by eye and clean it up later?

They are using somekind of half-dome trash can lid on the table fo the bandsaw which seems like a great idea. I may have to bite on that.....

The pros are pros, that's how they do it. Guys like me cut carefully around the tip w/ a jig saw, then sand down to the ptex edge carefully.

skidesmond wrote:The pros are pros, that's how they do it. Guys like me cut carefully around the tip w/ a jig saw, then sand down to the ptex edge carefully.

This! I wouldn't bother with the effort of coming up with a jig, you just don't need it. Cut it as best you can, sand it smooth, you'll never notice the difference.

Not a jig, a jig saw for a rough cut then sand down to the ptex edge.

you guys wanna know how the pros do it?

Yep, guessed right. Jig saw, sand smooth. Just don't suck at it and all will be good .

iggyskier wrote: Just don't suck at it and all will be good .

Ha, if only all of ski making could be that easy. Don't suck at making skis and you'll make great skis!

Bear in mind on a snowboard the tip/tail needs to be reinforced for stiffness if you take away the full wrap edge.

I did it the same way as skidesmond, just used some 2mm tipspacer plastic to cap the ends of my templates.
Cut as best as possible with the jigsaw then sanded back to the base material. You can do this by hand or with a belt sander. I turned my belt sander upside down and clamped it to bench which made a ghetto version of the sanders the pros use. The other nice thing they have is wet belts for this job so you don't send all the glass into the air and you can grind longer without fear of too much heat building up.
As Iggy said just don't suck at it. And this comes from practice.

Alex13 wrote:Bear in mind on a snowboard the tip/tail needs to be reinforced for stiffness if you take away the full wrap edge.

I like the thinking. Do you know this is what Lib do or are these your two bits? i thought of it too and, literally, took a magnifying glass to the edge but if there's anything they add, it's buried.

I find it hard to imagine it i'll make much difference. In fact, too much stiffness and it might create more chatter...?

Thanks