Section8 - Going Old school

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skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Made some progress today. Here's some pics of the veneers and base w/ edges.

Veneers for the build. Poplar on the bottom, maple on the left and ash on the right. The veneers are 1/16in.

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Maple bases cut out:
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Edges go on:
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Minor chip in the left side of the the left base:
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Edges on:
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Cores are the same as from the maple/pine build but not steam bent. http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2469

Cores measure 3-10-3, routed out for the edges, first time I've done this in awhile. Layup will be as follows:

Maple base
VDS
core
poplar veneer
poplar veneer
ash veneer top sheet

Epoxy as usual.

And... I bought some pine tar today to treat the bases like in the old days. Got it at TSC (Tractor Supply Co), says it's for horses (no shit!) but the (little) research I did seems like it's the same stuff used on wooden cross country skis. Haven't popped the can open yet. A bit leery about it. I'll have to test it out before applying to the skis.

Anyone know of an alternative? Would Tung oil work as well if I super saturate the base?
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a.badner
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Post by a.badner »

just a question,

how much do you think the maple veneer is going to slide with the pine tar?

also

do you have to replace the pine tar every once in a while?

im just thinking because a maple veneer is much cheaper than 4001 sintered p-tex. please do share the results. :)
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

a.badner wrote:just a question,

how much do you think the maple veneer is going to slide with the pine tar?

also

do you have to replace the pine tar every once in a while?

im just thinking because a maple veneer is much cheaper than 4001 sintered p-tex. please do share the results. :)
IDK. I bought it because that's what was used when skis were solid wood. You're suppose to wipe/brush it on heavy. Then use a heat gun so it will penetrate deep into the wood. Then wipe off the excess. After it dries you can wax the base. I think it needs to be applied once or twice a season, depending on the amount of skiing you do.

I chose maple for the base because it has a more closed grain than ash or hickory which was the typical wood pre-P-Tex days. So I'm hoping it will sand to a mirror finish, it normally does. I think once I get the base treated and waxed I think it will slide fine.... I hope. Otherwise I'll have something to put over the fireplace in the lodge or a shot glass ski :)

btw - I opened the can of pine-tar.... nasty! If a pine tree could shit, that's what it would smell like! I'll be riding up the chair solo for sure....
doughboyshredder
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Post by doughboyshredder »

both pop veneer above core, or is one under the core, one over?
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

doughboyshredder wrote:both pop veneer above core, or is one under the core, one over?
Originally I wanted one below and one above the core, which I think is the right way. But I'm unsure how flat it will come out. I routed the core to accept the edge. If I add a veneer between the base/edge and the core I'm not sure how flat it will be. In a normal build the FG can fill in nicely because it's flexible and very thin. What do you think?
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a.badner
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Post by a.badner »

what if the veneer cracks while pressing/ while riding?

i dont know. seems sketchy. but hey, if it works, it works
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

a.badner wrote:what if the veneer cracks while pressing/ while riding?

i dont know. seems sketchy. but hey, if it works, it works
If it's going to crack it will occur during the pressing. I'm going to have to make a sample piece with the poplar above and below the core and see how tight it all fits together. I think that layup will give a better results overall, as long as it doesn't cause the base to crack.

(thinking out load) I could dampen the base and poplar with water to make it a bit more pliable and use poly-u glue for that part of the layup. The glue will expand and fill any tiny voids... :?
doughboyshredder
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Post by doughboyshredder »

skidesmond wrote:
doughboyshredder wrote:both pop veneer above core, or is one under the core, one over?
Originally I wanted one below and one above the core, which I think is the right way. But I'm unsure how flat it will come out. I routed the core to accept the edge. If I add a veneer between the base/edge and the core I'm not sure how flat it will be. In a normal build the FG can fill in nicely because it's flexible and very thin. What do you think?
Hmmm. too late now, but maybe cut the pop to fit inside the edge and then not router the core?
Maybe cut a strip off the pop veneer so that the main piece sits inside the edges and the strip sits above the edge? (strip of veneer would need to fit in to rabbit on core). I definitely think it would create problems if you laid it over the edge without doing something.

very cool project, btw, looking forward to seeing the finished skis.
OAC
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Post by OAC »

skidesmond wrote: btw - I opened the can of pine-tar.... nasty! If a pine tree could shit, that's what it would smell like! I'll be riding up the chair solo for sure....
:D
What I remember when my dad was preparing the skis it wasn't that bad? Maybe it's not the same thing?
I think you will succeed!
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

OAC wrote: What I remember when my dad was preparing the skis it wasn't that bad?
Yeah but dont you guys eat all sorts of awful smelling pickled fish and such terrible things?
OAC
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Post by OAC »

It happens.... :)
Richuk
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Post by Richuk »

Nice work SD - great thread!
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

DBS - I think the right way to do it is to put a layer of poplar inside edges which means I'll need a new core.... bummer. I may have another set or core I could profile for this build. I'll have to check it out.

Then there is plan B.... as yet to be determined.....

MM- Just because the head is still on doesn't mean it's smelly... (usually)

OAC - I've read there are 2 types of pine-tar. One is for cold application and one for heated application. Either one can be used, maybe one is less smelly. Since there is a pic of a horse on the can it must be the cold application type. It's consistency is a little bit thinner than honey and almost black in color. Then again maybe it's really a condiment for horse meat.... with out the head of course :)

I'll fiddle around with the layup order today. Thanks everyone.
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Here's Plan B.... I did a mock layup using the actual materials. Order of materials are base/edges, poplar, core ,polar, ash

Materials meet good over the metal edge.
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This shot shows a slight gap where you'd expect to see one.
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I added VDS in these 2 pics . The VDS filled in most of the gap. When epoxy is applied it should be fine.

Image

Image

So, I'm going to go with this layup.
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

I did the layup tonight. My cassette is a bit long so it went into the press with some persuasion... that's always cause for concern. I'll have to get another cassette that's a little bit shorter or cut this one down. I couldn't pre-bend the base tip like I wanted to. I was afraid the base might break.

Somehow I added another layer of poplar.... So the layup went base, poplar,poplar,core,poplar,ash. I had all the materials layed out, not sure how the extra layer got mixed in.

I used about 1/2 the amount of epoxy/resin I normally use, about 16oz.

It will be interesting to see how this comes out. Now to the best part of the night
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