Ski Builders Forum

twizzstyle wrote:And really, you could cut some circles from a 2x6 and glue/screw them together and sand it relatively smooth. This doesn't need to be anywhere near precise, it's just a rough bend anyways.

yea Twizz, that was my thoughts too, mdf or something like that.. then stack 'n glue/screw together. (btw when I saw your setup, I said,"gee would be nice to know how to weld.. )

Piece of PVC drain pipe if you want to re-surface the mdf?

so for a 3/4 wrap we do we really need to roll just the end of the edge attached to the base.
so I just bought this will report back when it gets here.
It says it only goes to 20 ga but i think it will suit our purposes. Only way to know is when I try it. My ghetto bend attempts where not enough to just roll the very end of the edge.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230685420267?ss ... 500wt_1413

MM... can't wait to see how it works.

sam

Works perfect. Just s bit of slip and bend for the end of the 3/4 wrap.
silly expenditure but it is what it is. We had the cash.

good thread, excellent ghetto style roller pics.
we do 3/4 edge wrap except for split boards, the inside edge goes all the way. i think taking the board out of the press while still hot made the edge relax from the base since the epoxy was still a little pliable so we'll be leaving it in the press until it cools off a bit. a question below...

i think i'll be building a roller/pre-bender now, but does it make for a difficult lay up?

I layup in my mold so no
If your working with a flat cassette it might make life a little more difficult.

sam

twizzstyle wrote:
Go to 2:15 in this video and you'll see EXACTLY what I am doing.

I saw in the video that they put glue not only all 10cm but over the complete edge. Does anyone know what kind of glue the industry uses for that? I use superglue and it is really expensive! (3 EUR for 3 grams)

The glue they use is some kind of 3M contact adhesive. I got something that I think is the same stuff to try, but it didn't work for me at all. I did a test piece, and I was able to rip the edges right out after it was all laid up and pressed. I don't know what exactly the right method is though. Let it dry and then put together? Put it together right away (what I did). When I worked at K2 I saw them doing this a hundred times, but never really paid attention to the process

It's likely much more expensive than super glue, and super glue is a tried and true method for the hobbyist (and many of the smaller production builders too).

I use flexbale CA to glue edges to base. So far no problems. I lay up in my mold but don't prebend the tips. You can buy a small bottle of the glue at Rockler Woodworking stores for about $12 and glue six or seven pair of skis. I may try the prebend though because the tips do relax quite a bit especially with full radius edge around the tip.

If you're in Germany try one of the "1 EURO Shops" or "KIK" (yes, the cheap clothing store). They usually have cheap superglue that works well. I recently bought a pack of 6x3g for 2 EUR at KIK.

Hi,

did my first vertical edge-bending today. I did not build any jig for it, but just used a cardboard tube and a steel tube and my hands. The result speaks for itself:




Here you can see the 2 rolls and how I use them. I just press down the roll while holding the tip up, moving the roll a bit and alternating the pressure on the tip. With a bit of feeling its a 5 minute job to get a near-perfect result. The steel tube is only used very near the tip, as is very hard to vertically bend the edge here.







Ready for layup:

Keeping it simple. Doesn't need to be complicated. I do a similar thing. I use a 4inch diameter plastic pipe that's about 6 inches long. I clamp (pistol grip clamps) the plastic pipe over the tip area where the end of the edges meets the ptex and bend the tip area by rolling it toward the middle of the ski. Bending it just enough to give it the rough shape.

thnks Desmond, going to try that on my 3/4 edges

update, worked perfect thanks!

Be careful if you are doing heated cure with the supports that hold the base/edges in place at only a few spots along the ski's length. In the past some people have had uneven expansion and contraction due to the base/edges being constrained at certain points and ended up with a wavy sidecut (like magnetraction).
A full sidecut support as in a proper machined cassette is the best, otherwise glue them down with spray adhesive and let them expand and contract with the heat.