Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:35 am
Thanks mm and MM! By 2 over 20, I mean a 2 cm rise over 20 cm of length.
I also meant to mention that I've been using tinted epoxy sidewalls for a little over a year now. No "yellowing" issues so far, machines great and the bond to the core is very strong. I use a base with edges to draw an outline of the ski on the core blank and then router a channel using the base template as a guide (leaving a thin "floor" that gets planed off after the epoxy cures). Because the epoxy contracts some while curing, it usually takes two pours unless there's enough extra thickness to the core blank (relative to the profiled core thickness) that you can do it in one pour.
The one negative to the epoxy sidewalls is that they don't withstand impact as well as a plastic sidewall. They can chip when plastic will show no damage, or a smaller gouge. Been experimenting with two-part polyurethane, but as others have experienced, air bubbles are an issue.
I also meant to mention that I've been using tinted epoxy sidewalls for a little over a year now. No "yellowing" issues so far, machines great and the bond to the core is very strong. I use a base with edges to draw an outline of the ski on the core blank and then router a channel using the base template as a guide (leaving a thin "floor" that gets planed off after the epoxy cures). Because the epoxy contracts some while curing, it usually takes two pours unless there's enough extra thickness to the core blank (relative to the profiled core thickness) that you can do it in one pour.
The one negative to the epoxy sidewalls is that they don't withstand impact as well as a plastic sidewall. They can chip when plastic will show no damage, or a smaller gouge. Been experimenting with two-part polyurethane, but as others have experienced, air bubbles are an issue.