How to make urethane sidewalls
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I'm using task 16 plastic. They market it as their durable product. I also like a softer sidewall, it is 80A hardness.
Freezing, I don't see much change in properties.
Bonding, after toying with it, my results aren't quite as consistent as I want. I think they need to be sanded rougher and flamed more than the alternatives?
Finishing, on dark colors is hazed. Maybe a buffing wheel would help?
It also doesn't stick to hot glue, but does stick well to CA glue.
Freezing, I don't see much change in properties.
Bonding, after toying with it, my results aren't quite as consistent as I want. I think they need to be sanded rougher and flamed more than the alternatives?
Finishing, on dark colors is hazed. Maybe a buffing wheel would help?
It also doesn't stick to hot glue, but does stick well to CA glue.
We have snowboard and kiteboard build kits!
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
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- Location: The Dalles Oregon
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- Posts: 217
- Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: The Dalles Oregon
A pressure cooker would work great! Probably get one at a garage sale or second hand store cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/ ... 66839.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/ ... 66839.html
- MontuckyMadman
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I'm passing a flame over my setup to pull out the air bubbles, it works really well.
I don't think the vac setup is the absolute fix Plus 10 min in a pot with a 6 min pot life doesn't add up. I think it is the wood surface that is causes the air bubbles.
For a wood channel, I've heard the same from other guys outside of the forum having the same problem. What if you put a coating or release film to get rid of the surface with air gaps?
Maybe even sand the channel smooth and coat with some poly?
I just did a smooth on order and am going to try a few different products. I might give the channel method a try. I'll post some results.
I don't think the vac setup is the absolute fix Plus 10 min in a pot with a 6 min pot life doesn't add up. I think it is the wood surface that is causes the air bubbles.
For a wood channel, I've heard the same from other guys outside of the forum having the same problem. What if you put a coating or release film to get rid of the surface with air gaps?
Maybe even sand the channel smooth and coat with some poly?
I just did a smooth on order and am going to try a few different products. I might give the channel method a try. I'll post some results.
We have snowboard and kiteboard build kits!
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
I've thought of using a flame as well, although I have not used the urethane sidewall yet. I've used Mirror Coat epoxy for top sheet protection and the directions say to use a flame/torch to remove the air bubbles. But Mirror Coat takes a very long time to set up so you have a very long working time.
Mine only seemed to bubble on the top and just as the stuff was going off.prospectsnow wrote:I'm passing a flame over my setup to pull out the air bubbles, it works really well.
I don't think the vac setup is the absolute fix Plus 10 min in a pot with a 6 min pot life doesn't add up. I think it is the wood surface that is causes the air bubbles.
For a wood channel, I've heard the same from other guys outside of the forum having the same problem. What if you put a coating or release film to get rid of the surface with air gaps?
Maybe even sand the channel smooth and coat with some poly?
I just did a smooth on order and am going to try a few different products. I might give the channel method a try. I'll post some results.
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Is Guest a new feature to Skibuildiers? I thought something was a bit strange.Anonymous wrote:I've thought of using a flame as well, although I have not used the urethane sidewall yet. I've used Mirror Coat epoxy for top sheet protection and the directions say to use a flame/torch to remove the air bubbles. But Mirror Coat takes a very long time to set up so you have a very long working time.
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I changed up the smooth on product I use from task 16 plastic to pmc 780 dry urethane rubber. Way better bonding in our testing. The rubber has transparency compared to the plastic was opaque. These both have the same 80a duro.
I used their florescent colors for some of these too. They come out looking pretty amazing.
My testing shows that the material actually compresses a fair amount. A little concerning in the long term that this stuff might deform. I'm also thinking I can get rid of the edge step because of this as well. hmm.
What do you guys think will be the best way to get a finished look on this after cutting out with a router?
I used their florescent colors for some of these too. They come out looking pretty amazing.
My testing shows that the material actually compresses a fair amount. A little concerning in the long term that this stuff might deform. I'm also thinking I can get rid of the edge step because of this as well. hmm.
What do you guys think will be the best way to get a finished look on this after cutting out with a router?
We have snowboard and kiteboard build kits!
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
- MontuckyMadman
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- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
I think its too soft for sidewall material.
The edge will be able to deform to much.
You are essentially removing the main purpose of a sidewall, in my opinion, and making something softer for the edge to sit on.
When you hit something hard it will allow the edge to bend and dent.
Perhaps its edge cracking you are more concerned with?
Riding metal rails and not slamming into unseen rocks?
I want a super hard sidewall to prevent edge compressions, which will affect tunability and turnability on piste.
The edge will be able to deform to much.
You are essentially removing the main purpose of a sidewall, in my opinion, and making something softer for the edge to sit on.
When you hit something hard it will allow the edge to bend and dent.
Perhaps its edge cracking you are more concerned with?
Riding metal rails and not slamming into unseen rocks?
I want a super hard sidewall to prevent edge compressions, which will affect tunability and turnability on piste.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
I profiled my core with the smooth-on today and unfortunately there were bubbles through the urethane. It will be ok for this (my first) build but its definately not a perfect job. Perhaps if it were put in a pressure chamber like they recommend everything would be fine but that defeats the purpose IMO.
It did machine perfectly though and has an excellent bond to the core.
It did machine perfectly though and has an excellent bond to the core.