Core profiler table plans.
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- backyardskier
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Core profiler table plans.
Making my way down my list and next up on the list is cores. Going to be working with a router. Not to sure what kind of bit will work best on bamboo, but I will worry about that later. The plan as it stands right now is to line up the router flushed with the bottom on the tray, and use the rails to create the shape of the core.
Side view of table
Front view of table
Side view of router tray
Top view of tray
Tray and Table
The tray is not going to be touching the table with its running boards.
Going to be using MDF for the tray and table. So what do all of you think of this plan? Will work out or not?
Side view of table
Front view of table
Side view of router tray
Top view of tray
Tray and Table
The tray is not going to be touching the table with its running boards.
Going to be using MDF for the tray and table. So what do all of you think of this plan? Will work out or not?
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Re: Core profiler table plans.
I've had to deal with this before when my materials are taller than my rails.backyardskier wrote: Tray and Table
Going to be using MDF for the tray and table. So what do all of you think of this plan? Will work out or not?
With the way your drawing is the sled is sitting on your core. As you machine away the core it will eventually sit on the rails but is not a good way to start.
I would build a slider block out of hdpe to go right where the arrow is.
This will let your sled slide a lot nicer and fill the gap.
sam
troublemaker beat me to it
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
- backyardskier
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Yes the rails will determine the shape of the core. The height of the table and the shape of the core will be cut as one piece.troublemaker wrote:If the router bridge doesn't touch the side rails, how is it going to profile a shape into your core? Your side rails determine the shape/taper of the core.
- backyardskier
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:26 am
Watch this great video, about one minute in you can see an excellent router bridge set-up. This is about the best router bridge I've seen, I especially like the vacuum table and roundway guides.
Kingswood Skis
http://vimeo.com/11913875
-S
Kingswood Skis
http://vimeo.com/11913875
-S
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- backyardskier
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Thats an awesome table, but mine is going to be nothing like that sadly.SHIF wrote:Watch this great video, about one minute in you can see an excellent router bridge set-up. This is about the best router bridge I've seen, I especially like the vacuum table and roundway guides.
Kingswood Skis
http://vimeo.com/11913875
-S
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here some more food for thought.backyardskier wrote:
Thats an awesome table, but mine is going to be nothing like that sadly.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtur ... -skis.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtur ... iis-2.html
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992
- threeninethree
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Im with you DBS, I have just about had it with my planer set up.
I have been thinking of using some 1/2" keyed shaft like this:
It also looks like he is using a face mill bit or a spoilboard surfacing bit on the router.
I have been thinking of using some 1/2" keyed shaft like this:
It also looks like he is using a face mill bit or a spoilboard surfacing bit on the router.
Last edited by threeninethree on Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
~ Matt
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Can you band hardened shaft? How can you see from the video what router bit he's using?threeninethree wrote:Im with you DBS, I have just about had it with my planer set up.
I have been thinking of using some 1/2" keyed shaft like this:
It also looks like he is using a face mill bit or a spoilboard surfacing bit on the router. [img]http://www.toolstoday.com/images/PRODUC ... m/5714.jpg[/img
Another option bottom cleaning bit
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... bottm.html
- threeninethree
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I think for simplicity and cost regular black iron pipe1/2" or 3/4" will work just fine.threeninethree wrote:I'm sure 1/2" dia x 6' piece will bend...there is also keyed alum shaft.
only problem might be the transition into the tip/tail area. Kingswood ends the core staight and uses all tip fill.
maybe:
belt sender the tips.
Readjust the rails for straight cut or have separate set of rails for straight cut
also rails can be adjusted so they going straight after taper is ended. not sure how well this will work. Haven't tried it
another option just go with all tip fill