Core profiler table plans.

For discussions related to designing and making ski/snowboard-building equipment, such as presses, core profilers, edge benders, etc.

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backyardskier
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Core profiler table plans.

Post by backyardskier »

Making my way down my list and next up on the list is cores. Going to be working with a router. Not to sure what kind of bit will work best on bamboo, but I will worry about that later. The plan as it stands right now is to line up the router flushed with the bottom on the tray, and use the rails to create the shape of the core.

Image

Side view of table
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Front view of table
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Side view of router tray
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Top view of tray
Image

Tray and Table
Image
The tray is not going to be touching the table with its running boards.

Going to be using MDF for the tray and table. So what do all of you think of this plan? Will work out or not?
troublemaker
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Post by troublemaker »

If the router bridge doesn't touch the side rails, how is it going to profile a shape into your core? Your side rails determine the shape/taper of the core.
sammer
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Re: Core profiler table plans.

Post by sammer »

backyardskier wrote: Tray and Table
Image
Going to be using MDF for the tray and table. So what do all of you think of this plan? Will work out or not?
I've had to deal with this before when my materials are taller than my rails.
With the way your drawing is the sled is sitting on your core. As you machine away the core it will eventually sit on the rails but is not a good way to start.
I would build a slider block out of hdpe to go right where the arrow is.
This will let your sled slide a lot nicer and fill the gap.


sam

troublemaker beat me to it
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...

Best of luck to you. (uneva)
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backyardskier
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Post by backyardskier »

troublemaker wrote:If the router bridge doesn't touch the side rails, how is it going to profile a shape into your core? Your side rails determine the shape/taper of the core.
Yes the rails will determine the shape of the core. The height of the table and the shape of the core will be cut as one piece.
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backyardskier
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Post by backyardskier »

sammer

I'm going to shed some height of the core with a pre cut to size before putting it on the table.
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SHIF
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Post by SHIF »

Watch this great video, about one minute in you can see an excellent router bridge set-up. This is about the best router bridge I've seen, I especially like the vacuum table and roundway guides.

Kingswood Skis
http://vimeo.com/11913875

-S
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Wow I like that setup.
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backyardskier
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Post by backyardskier »

SHIF wrote:Watch this great video, about one minute in you can see an excellent router bridge set-up. This is about the best router bridge I've seen, I especially like the vacuum table and roundway guides.

Kingswood Skis
http://vimeo.com/11913875

-S
Thats an awesome table, but mine is going to be nothing like that sadly.
AKtransplant
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Post by AKtransplant »

Are the adjustment bolts welded to the steel rails and adjustment is done at the nut on top and presumably below the table?
doughboyshredder
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Post by doughboyshredder »

skidesmond wrote:Wow I like that setup.
Beautiful!

Especially the vacuum setup. Need to try that, as I haven't had much success with planer crib, or my router setup. I especially love the adjust-ability of that with the threaded rods. Hmmmmmm, mind spinning.
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

backyardskier wrote:
Thats an awesome table, but mine is going to be nothing like that sadly.
here some more food for thought.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtur ... -skis.html

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtur ... iis-2.html

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992
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threeninethree
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Post by threeninethree »

Im with you DBS, I have just about had it with my planer set up.

I have been thinking of using some 1/2" keyed shaft like this:
Image

It also looks like he is using a face mill bit or a spoilboard surfacing bit on the router. Image
Last edited by threeninethree on Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
~ Matt
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

threeninethree wrote:Im with you DBS, I have just about had it with my planer set up.

I have been thinking of using some 1/2" keyed shaft like this:


It also looks like he is using a face mill bit or a spoilboard surfacing bit on the router. [img]http://www.toolstoday.com/images/PRODUC ... m/5714.jpg[/img
Can you band hardened shaft? How can you see from the video what router bit he's using?
Another option bottom cleaning bit
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... bottm.html
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threeninethree
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Post by threeninethree »

I'm sure 1/2" dia x 6' piece will bend...there is also keyed alum shaft.

-only problem might be the transition into the tip/tail area. Kingswood ends the core staight and uses all tip fill.
~ Matt
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

threeninethree wrote:I'm sure 1/2" dia x 6' piece will bend...there is also keyed alum shaft.
I think for simplicity and cost regular black iron pipe1/2" or 3/4" will work just fine.
only problem might be the transition into the tip/tail area. Kingswood ends the core staight and uses all tip fill.

maybe:
belt sender the tips.
Readjust the rails for straight cut or have separate set of rails for straight cut
also rails can be adjusted so they going straight after taper is ended. not sure how well this will work. Haven't tried it
another option just go with all tip fill
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