Has anyone got any top tips for buying a router (and table?)
Is it useful to have a plunge router or not?
What power should I target?
What size bits should it take?
Are there any other key bits of info that i should be aware of?
Also I noticed that some people have used a handheld planer to profile cores. How did that work out? I am guessing that it might be a bit less time consuming than using a router....
What router?
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
Hey Bambi,
The number one thing that I would suggest is that you get a set of template bushing guides for whatever router that you buy. I use them for just about every operation in the ski making process. That said, you'll need a plunge router to go with them. I have 10 routers, three of them are plunge versions, and I use the plungers 90% of the time. Mostly, I use Dewalt 2 1/4 hp units and like them fine... there may be better units out there, though. The power is fine for everything I do to this point. You could get by with less power for some operations, like cutting out the base, but, doing the finish work on the sidewalls of the ski seems to take all the power my routers have because I'm trimming UHMW at the waist of the ski that is about 12 to 13 mm thick. All of the bits that I use for ski making are 1/4 " shank, but most all larger routers will have 1/2" shank capacity.
good luck,
G-man
The number one thing that I would suggest is that you get a set of template bushing guides for whatever router that you buy. I use them for just about every operation in the ski making process. That said, you'll need a plunge router to go with them. I have 10 routers, three of them are plunge versions, and I use the plungers 90% of the time. Mostly, I use Dewalt 2 1/4 hp units and like them fine... there may be better units out there, though. The power is fine for everything I do to this point. You could get by with less power for some operations, like cutting out the base, but, doing the finish work on the sidewalls of the ski seems to take all the power my routers have because I'm trimming UHMW at the waist of the ski that is about 12 to 13 mm thick. All of the bits that I use for ski making are 1/4 " shank, but most all larger routers will have 1/2" shank capacity.
good luck,
G-man
I love routers. They are infintely useful. Most of the major manufacturers make kits which include a plunge base, fixed base, and a removable motor. I use the plunge base for handheld operations and have the fixed base attached to a router table. It is pretty easy to swap the motor from base to base. 2.25 hp is a good size, anything larger makes it a bear to handhold.
A router table is also very nice to have. I try to do as many operations on the table rather than handheld. I find what takes the longest is finding a way of securing the work piece, while still allowing the router to move and cut. The table solves that, since you move the workpiece instead of the router. I would suggest not getting a benchtop table; the table is too small and wobbly. Instead build one yourself out of mdf or Rockler sells a kit that has a nice big table.
I try to get 1/2" shank bits, since they seem more stable, but some bits only come 1/4" shank.
-kelvin
A router table is also very nice to have. I try to do as many operations on the table rather than handheld. I find what takes the longest is finding a way of securing the work piece, while still allowing the router to move and cut. The table solves that, since you move the workpiece instead of the router. I would suggest not getting a benchtop table; the table is too small and wobbly. Instead build one yourself out of mdf or Rockler sells a kit that has a nice big table.
I try to get 1/2" shank bits, since they seem more stable, but some bits only come 1/4" shank.
-kelvin
I was about to ask this same question....
Seems like the plunge router is a definate then? I'm looking at this guy over at HD:
Ryobi 2 hp Plunge Router $99.00
Is that OK or should I spend more $ on a better/more powerful router? They seem to have a Bosch for $219 that is both a fixed and plunger (removable plunger) but it's twice as expensive...
Also are their kits with 10~15 bits for a reduced price worth it? Not sure which bits I need yet so looking at the kit, what specific bits should I be looking for/do I need?
Thanks,
Ben
Seems like the plunge router is a definate then? I'm looking at this guy over at HD:
Ryobi 2 hp Plunge Router $99.00
Is that OK or should I spend more $ on a better/more powerful router? They seem to have a Bosch for $219 that is both a fixed and plunger (removable plunger) but it's twice as expensive...
Also are their kits with 10~15 bits for a reduced price worth it? Not sure which bits I need yet so looking at the kit, what specific bits should I be looking for/do I need?
Thanks,
Ben
I would stay far away from the ryobi router. Some of their stuff (drills, saws) are good for the money, but for a router I would by the best you can afford. It is important that the router be easy to adjust and more importantly, it stays that way. If the plunge mechanism slips while you are working, it could ruin your entire piece. I've used a ryobi fixed base router and even that thing won't hold your settings. I have the Bosch kit, and it is excellent. Just the plunge mechanism is worth twice the price.
If you go to amazon.com, they have a $25 off sale on their tools. You can get the bosch kit for less than $200.
I usually stay away from bit kits. I was given one, and the quality of the bits aren't all that great, and I end up using only 2 or 3 bits from the kit. Just buy the individual bits as you need them.
Here is a list of bits that I use most often (this is from memory so I'm probably forgetting some):
1" dish carving bit (for profiling)
1/4" straight (for router bushings)
1/4" flush trim, top bearing
1/4" flush trim, bottom bearing
1/2" flush trim, top bearing
the flush trim bits are used for cutting parts out once you have a template made. Top bearing vs bottom bearing depends on how you plan on setting up your templates.
-kelvin
If you go to amazon.com, they have a $25 off sale on their tools. You can get the bosch kit for less than $200.
I usually stay away from bit kits. I was given one, and the quality of the bits aren't all that great, and I end up using only 2 or 3 bits from the kit. Just buy the individual bits as you need them.
Here is a list of bits that I use most often (this is from memory so I'm probably forgetting some):
1" dish carving bit (for profiling)
1/4" straight (for router bushings)
1/4" flush trim, top bearing
1/4" flush trim, bottom bearing
1/2" flush trim, top bearing
the flush trim bits are used for cutting parts out once you have a template made. Top bearing vs bottom bearing depends on how you plan on setting up your templates.
-kelvin
Good to know. So far I have their "one system" of 18v tools. I needed a cordless drill and that was the best value even over all the other drill only kits. It came with: sawzall, drill, flashlight, circular saw, chainsaw, jigsaw, dustbuster, 2 batteries, a charger and I'm sure some other stuff. We also have their battery powered orbital sander and a table saw. All have worked very well for what I use them for, but I'm always leary of that price point...kelvin wrote:I would stay far away from the ryobi router. Some of their stuff (drills, saws) are good for the money, but for a router I would by the best you can afford.
Thanks for the heads up.
kelvin wrote: Here is a list of bits that I use most often (this is from memory so I'm probably forgetting some):
1" dish carving bit (for profiling)
1/4" straight (for router bushings)
1/4" flush trim, top bearing
1/4" flush trim, bottom bearing
1/2" flush trim, top bearing
the flush trim bits are used for cutting parts out once you have a template made. Top bearing vs bottom bearing depends on how you plan on setting up your templates.
-kelvin
Thanks, that's perfect. I didn't realize that the have top AND bottom bearing bits. The only bearing bit HD had in the store were the botton bearing kit, and to me it makes more sense to use top bearing bits. I'll have to find someplace that has a better selection. Any suggestions as to who might have a good in store selection of bits? Is Lowe's any better? I don't mind buying things online when I know what they are, but I like to be able to see them firsthand before I buy the wrong thing.
Ben
Hi Jordan and jacobson1,
I agree with Kelvin on the basic router bits you will probably need. However, one thing about home-grown ski building that is so great to watch is how differently we all do things. I've even taken a common router cutter, chucked it up in the lathe, and ground my own special shapes for specific jobs (yes, complicated, but doable). So, I recommend that you let your process related creativity go wild and don't get too locked into what it might seem that everyone else is doing.
Regarding top bearing router cutters, yes, they are difficult to find. And Jordan, I use them mostly for clamping templates/patterns on top of the workpiece, then doing the cutting. Even if you do manage to find a 'bearing-over-bit' cutter, it is usually just a straight cutter, but here's G-man's tip for the day... you can order a 1/4 inch locking collar and a 1/2 x 1/4 inch bearing from www.leevalley.com and make a top bearing cutter out of any 1/4 inch shank router bit. If you also buy a 1/2 inch straight cutter from Lee Valley, you can end up with a 1/2 inch 'bearing-over-bit' cutter for much less than if you actually found one and bought it already packaged that way. I buy the collars and bearings 10 at a time because I use them so much and beause they are so inexpensive from Lee Valley.
G-man
I agree with Kelvin on the basic router bits you will probably need. However, one thing about home-grown ski building that is so great to watch is how differently we all do things. I've even taken a common router cutter, chucked it up in the lathe, and ground my own special shapes for specific jobs (yes, complicated, but doable). So, I recommend that you let your process related creativity go wild and don't get too locked into what it might seem that everyone else is doing.
Regarding top bearing router cutters, yes, they are difficult to find. And Jordan, I use them mostly for clamping templates/patterns on top of the workpiece, then doing the cutting. Even if you do manage to find a 'bearing-over-bit' cutter, it is usually just a straight cutter, but here's G-man's tip for the day... you can order a 1/4 inch locking collar and a 1/2 x 1/4 inch bearing from www.leevalley.com and make a top bearing cutter out of any 1/4 inch shank router bit. If you also buy a 1/2 inch straight cutter from Lee Valley, you can end up with a 1/2 inch 'bearing-over-bit' cutter for much less than if you actually found one and bought it already packaged that way. I buy the collars and bearings 10 at a time because I use them so much and beause they are so inexpensive from Lee Valley.
G-man
G-man, great link, thanks,
is this the bit you're talking about, in the 1/2" dia.:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46171&ap=1
and then you drop a bearing over the shank from the top, found here:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46171&ap=1
awesome. For me top bearings make sense, where as bottom bearing seem like they'd be harded for me to get the hang of. Thanks. I agree in the figuring out your own meathods. I just need to knwo where to go to get started and not spend too much $$$ on the wrong parts.
Thanks again!
Ben
is this the bit you're talking about, in the 1/2" dia.:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46171&ap=1
and then you drop a bearing over the shank from the top, found here:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46171&ap=1
awesome. For me top bearings make sense, where as bottom bearing seem like they'd be harded for me to get the hang of. Thanks. I agree in the figuring out your own meathods. I just need to knwo where to go to get started and not spend too much $$$ on the wrong parts.
Thanks again!
Ben
Ben,
Yes, you could use any of the 1/4" shank bits on that page. Keep in mind that you can use a cutter diameter that is both larger, smaller, or equal to the O.D. of the bearing. That allows you to cut larger than, smaller than, or equal to your master template. However, if you are using a 1/4" cutter with a 1/4" I.D. bearing, I'd suggest using a lock ring both above and below the bearing. I use a lock ring on the top side of all top bearing set-ups... it keeps the bearing in place on the bit shank so that the bearing rides properly on the template.
Here is the bearing page: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p= ... 6168,46180
Here is the lock ring page: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p= ... =1,46168,4
I also picked up 1/4" I.D. bearings in the 5/8" and 3/4" O.D. size for the same purpose.
Cheers
G-man
Yes, you could use any of the 1/4" shank bits on that page. Keep in mind that you can use a cutter diameter that is both larger, smaller, or equal to the O.D. of the bearing. That allows you to cut larger than, smaller than, or equal to your master template. However, if you are using a 1/4" cutter with a 1/4" I.D. bearing, I'd suggest using a lock ring both above and below the bearing. I use a lock ring on the top side of all top bearing set-ups... it keeps the bearing in place on the bit shank so that the bearing rides properly on the template.
Here is the bearing page: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p= ... 6168,46180
Here is the lock ring page: www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p= ... =1,46168,4
I also picked up 1/4" I.D. bearings in the 5/8" and 3/4" O.D. size for the same purpose.
Cheers
G-man
I have this router kit that is variable speed and has the plunge and fixed base will it work well?
http://www.hitachi-koki.com/powertools/ ... m12vc.html
http://www.hitachi-koki.com/powertools/ ... m12vc.html
I like being able to see the template while cutting, so I use a bottom bearing in a router table. The template is on top of the piece and the cutter head is not fully exposed. While handheld, I use the top bearing bit so the template is on top. Like g-man said, there are many ways to do things and you should do what is most comfortable and safest for you.
If you want to fondle some router bits, rockler or woodcraft have stores all over and are a good source for bits and woodworking tools.
-kelvin
If you want to fondle some router bits, rockler or woodcraft have stores all over and are a good source for bits and woodworking tools.
-kelvin