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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 3:27 am
by ben_mtl
Very nice ! can't wait to see it after it's flashed !
Don't you worry about it being stiff with a full carbon layer + basalt quadrax ?

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:55 am
by skidesmond
Great idea w/ the leaves! I think it maybe too late now for me to gather leaves as most have fallen and may be to dry now. Damn! There's always next year.

Lookin' great.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 6:24 am
by Dtrain
Yes ben, I want it stiff. It wont be too stiff. the uni carbon is full length but only one inch width per "ski" above and below core. More of a stringer than a layer.

I also compensated by not making the core thicker. most splitboards have a thicker core than a reg. board ive found.

But........ Im still new to this building game, so I guess we will see when I cut it out tonight. :D

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:35 am
by twizzstyle
I wonder if you could use one of those little magnetic nail finders to find the inserts?

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:38 am
by twizzstyle

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 12:00 pm
by Dtrain
Nice idea twizz. I found a great method though. Earth magnets. Cilinder shape.same diameter as the insert. You can pretty much throw it at the board and it sticks directly ontop of an insert.

Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:46 pm
by Dtrain
got this one cut out.

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NOSE
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TAIL
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Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:56 am
by Smiley
Lookin awesome DTrain!!!! :D

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 9:34 pm
by Dtrain
Got another splitboard pressed.

this time went with 19oz triax on top, 19.9 ounce quadaxial basalt on bottom. The full bamboo core with carbonized bamboo sidewalls.

I have stopped my core shift issues. 4 wood blocks glued to the sides of the core. they contain holes in them for inserts, spray glue bases to cassette, super glue the 4 inserts to cassette. No shift, no dowells or inserts in final product. Stoke is high.

I am now officialy done with tip spacer. nothing about it rubs me right. I bought a couple tubs of smooth-on 790 poly-u. I have 2 buddies that have a cnc shop that are starting to give me great pricing as I am A repeat customer.

I will pour channel walls/spacer and have cores cnc profiled from now on. Our Delta planer has worked alright for profiling, but our patience, time, and blades have wore thin.

a couple pics of the rough flashed board. not chopped yet.

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can the other channel pouring poly-u snowboard crew (ya you) give me some advice on these pesky bubbles Ive read about, and some facts about using a tourch, etc. to try and remove them?[/img]

Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:37 am
by chrismp
if you have a vacuum pump that reaches 28-29"hg you can easily build a degassing chamber. i used an old pressure cooking pot as a chamber. just bought a thick sheet of lexan as a lid, routered a channel with the same diameter as the rim of the pot into the lid and filled that up with some silicone (the stuff you use for tile joints). added a connector to the sheet and connected the vacuum pump. it reaches full vacuum within a couple of seconds (mind you i have quite an expensive vacuum pump).

with the adiprene lf950a / ethacure 300 combo i use bubbles aren't that big of an issue even if you don't degas. just pass a torch over the sidewalls as long as they're still liquid.

only downer for me with PU is the short working times. sometimes this stuff hardens as you pour the last bits into the through and i'd rather have a little more working time...maybe i'll just mix two separate cups and degas the second one while pouring the first.

Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:20 am
by vinman
Where did you get your basalt fiber?

Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:51 am
by Dtrain
Thanks Chris.

Vinman:I bought from sudaglass because they have no minimum order. Unfortunately there triax is a 28 ounce. The do have bias and uni that could be stacked, but though I have not tryed that method, I'd think it sucks up a lot of resin. Basaltex has the good triax, but they have a 50m minimum of 50 inch wide. About 700 bucks. maybe next year for me. Shipping the roll to Canada is about 250 bucks.

heart breaking tragedy

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:49 pm
by Upper Left Coast
i've already got some input from a thread in the ski design/layup forum but here are some pics of our first ski. one of them delaminated right out of the press probably due to the fact that i didn't remove all the spray glue that was used to hold the cores down to the cnc table. oops! really heart breaking since they would have been really sweet otherwise.

2.5mm - 12.6mm-3.0mm bamboo core
22oz triax fiber glass top and bottom with a piece of 9oz uni for binding area.
143-123-127 dimensions 191cm length. 500mm tip rocker, 250mm tail. 4mm camber underfoot.
then this happened...

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you're looking at a gaping hole between the core and the fiber glass on the base side. one ski bonded well, the other did not. can i get some reassuring statements about perseverance please? also, maybe 60psi is a little too high?

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:26 pm
by twizzstyle
60psi is not too high, and certainly won't cause delam issues. 50-80psi seems to be the most common range for folks with pneumatic presses, although some press even higher than that (I'd worry about squeezing out too much epoxy that high).

That delam is a major bummer, I was envisioning a small crack or something, that's huge! :(

Perseverance is the name of the game with this hobby. This might be your first major heart brake building skis/snowboards, but it won't be your last, and don't fool yourself into thinking you'll learn from every mistake you make! :) On every pair I've built there is always something that I forget, or get careless/rushed about. The perseverance comes when you're standing at the bottom of a great run on your own handmade gear with a huge grin :D

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 3:24 pm
by vinman
How about filling it with a paste epoxy, repressing and giving them a go anyway? When I screw up sidewall I use JB WELD or PC 7 paste epoxy.

I guess it depends on how far I that delam propagates and it you think it would pretty much be a total failure with any sort of force on it.