Cleaning the flashing after the bandsaw cut

For discussions related to designing and making ski/snowboard-building equipment, such as presses, core profilers, edge benders, etc.

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summitskier
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Cleaning the flashing after the bandsaw cut

Post by summitskier »

Would a higher RPM metal working belt sander/grinder work best or are the lower speed woodworking ones sufficient? I've been using a 4.5" grinder at 12k rpm with 40 grit and it works ok but I want to upgrade. Curious to everyone elses setup.
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Either one ewill work. I use a variable speed belt sander, 50grit. You need to be careful to not over heat the ski/edge when grinding, otherwise either should work.
rnordell
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Post by rnordell »

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Oscillating ... le-Sander/
I really like mine. I start with 36-50 grit on the flashing and then 80-150 for finish work close to the edge. $200 at Home Depot and a lifetime warranty.
summitskier
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Post by summitskier »

awesome thanks, we just picked up an old non oscillating 6"x80" edge sander. does the trick even with 80 grit.
MadRussian
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Re: Cleaning the flashing after the bandsaw cut

Post by MadRussian »

summitskier wrote:Would a higher RPM metal working belt sander/grinder work best or are the lower speed woodworking ones sufficient? I've been using a 4.5" grinder at 12k rpm with 40 grit and it works ok but I want to upgrade. Curious to everyone elses setup.
angle grinder can be run with router speed controller to reduce RPM. To my experience 4.5" inch grinder feels like underpowered if RPM reduced. Better option IMO 5 or 7 inch disc Sander.

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NinetyFour
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I'm cheap...

Post by NinetyFour »

If you don't have access to an oscillating spindle sander, then a sanding drum in the drill press with the drill press' pulleys setup for speed, then it's a great alternative. It will wear out the paper pretty quick as it doesn't oscillate though... But until I'm doing enough building to justify an oscillating spindle sander, I'm going to continue using the drill press.
Idris
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Post by Idris »

Just a belt sander clamped to a solid table, 36 grit in mine at the moment, will have to look into an oscillating sander in the future, the belt sander goes through belts quick.
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MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

I use 6 x 48 belt sander with bet going horizontally. Not the best approach but doable. Now I picked up edge sander with simple modifications should be best tool for the job also should be good to make templates
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
Thomas A. Edison
knightsofnii
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Post by knightsofnii »

with all these shops going under, search for a grindrite or a wintersteiger, i bet you could find an edge grinder for a few hundred.
Doug
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skimann20
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Post by skimann20 »

MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »


nice. why they so rare around here :( btw it looks like 3 phase motor on the machine

another option woodworking edge sander those not so rare and often pops up on Craigslist. In non-production environment with dust collection work good. Used my "new to me" today for the first time with very good results
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
Thomas A. Edison
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

Idris wrote:Just a belt sander clamped to a solid table, 36 grit in mine at the moment, will have to look into an oscillating sander in the future, the belt sander goes through belts quick.
I assuming you using handheld belt sander. In those belt short and get bad rather quickly if used as edge Sander.
I got an idea you might want to try.
Simplest way use two identical sanders clamps to the table and run long belt between two of them, build pad in the middle. Use one sender as a motor and another one for belt adjustments. Or take one sender apart and spread the components. if works you can use 80 inches long belt ....much less problems. Longer even better
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
Thomas A. Edison
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Best tool yet if you don't mind the dust is a angle grinder with a sanding disk.
Does one edge a minit and doesn't heat up the ski.
Sight from top down with ski flat. Ready for a right angle and a finish rout.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
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