Amana CNC bits

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MadRussian
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Amana CNC bits

Post by MadRussian »

browsing Amana website I looked over there CNC bits line. I like those bit descriptions "For high-volume production work.....Open-flute design promotes rapid chip clearance, necessary for high feed rates"

well I don't have CNC but the router bridge profiler somewhat similar. Anybody know what's the difference between their regular bit line and CNC line.
also they have router bits with inserts while those initial price is high, for example 1 1/2 inch straight bit starting at about $160. At the same time replacement inserts about $5-$7 .Long-term this might be better approach.
ben_mtl
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Post by ben_mtl »

Here's what I use on my CNC (1-1/2" dia) :
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5605-cnc-st ... -bits.aspx

I don't have a lot of cutting time with it for now but it's been good for what I've done, the price is good too...
A bad day skiing is always better than a good one at work...
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

ben_mtl wrote:Here's what I use on my CNC (1-1/2" dia) :
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5605-cnc-st ... -bits.aspx

I don't have a lot of cutting time with it for now but it's been good for what I've done, the price is good too...
You have CNC. I don't. It specifically says not to use in handheld router or router table. I wonder why.
knightsofnii
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Post by knightsofnii »

that spoilboard bit would probably come in handy too!!! looks great for flattening stuff.
Doug
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

I called Amana apparently router bit not recommended for handheld router only because could have kick back. Also it made for hire feed rate obviously. Looks like it should work nicely in profiler bridge set up.
that spoilboard bit would probably come in handy too!!! looks great for flattening stuff.
imo this spoil board bit should work nicely in production environment.

one more interesting option
Image
Image



http://www.toolstoday.com/p-6148-ez-cha ... a-170.aspx
twizzstyle
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Post by twizzstyle »

They told you not to use it in a handheld router because of chance of kickback, but you think it will work well on a router bridge profiling setup? That is handheld, no?
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

twizzstyle wrote:They told you not to use it in a handheld router because of chance of kickback, but you think it will work well on a router bridge profiling setup? That is handheld, no?
Yes No

my router secure in place, bridge waited 80 pounds.only by hand I do is pushing the router in X and Y. kickback will not affect the router in my set up. I'm more concerned kickback could reap core from the table..... But that's possible with any other router bit
JSquare
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Post by JSquare »

Mad- buy this:

No kick back, cuts like butter. Turn router speed down to 12,000-16,000 RPM.
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

JSquare wrote:Mad- buy this:

No kick back, cuts like butter. Turn router speed down to 12,000-16,000 RPM.
to stay on the subject of this thread it was not about what router bit to use.

thx For suggestion. Freud bits are rated similarly to Amana in quality but I will buy Amana before I buy Freud. At the same time in the same price range between $30-$40 they are better options. Whiteside rated highest in quality.
http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits ... -data.html
JSquare
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Post by JSquare »

MadRussian wrote:
JSquare wrote:Mad- buy this:

No kick back, cuts like butter. Turn router speed down to 12,000-16,000 RPM.
to stay on the subject of this thread it was not about what router bit to use.
It always comes down to what bit to use... that's the point. What are you using anyways and what problem are you trying to solve?

From your post, it sounds like upping your feed rate and going into high volume production?

Just trying to keep you focused, man. I just want to see you use that beast of a press you have and press a ski!
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

JSquare wrote:

It always comes down to what bit to use... that's the point. What are you using anyways and what problem are you trying to solve?
in this thread I'm not trying to solve the problem rather wanted to understand what the different between two similar looking products
From your post, it sounds like upping your feed rate and going into high volume production?
No high-volume production here only high productivity. This way my beast profiling table get used to for to its full capacity.
Just trying to keep you focused, man. I just want to see you use that beast of a press you have and press a ski!
I'm focused. Almost finished my press, maybe couple of days and it's done, except for blankets
JSquare
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Post by JSquare »

Gotcha..

This link is useful: http://www.toolstoday.com/t-antikickbackrouterbits.aspx

The CNC bits take a "bigger bite" and increase the likelihood of kickback. The bigger bite should also let you up the feed rate. I'm envisioning that kickback would still cause unpleasantness in a router bridge, although I'm sure it depends on how the router is fixtured.

Maybe someone that's tried this out would know more... My bridge is like the one in the how to section and I value my wrists, so I've never ventured down this path.
MadRussian
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Post by MadRussian »

thank you for the info.
This CNC bit will be for the future anyway. For now I'd have couple so-called middle-of-the-road quality from MLCS.
knightsofnii
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Post by knightsofnii »

i just got a bunch of whiteside upcut bits off amazon for an ok price.
1/8, 1/4, 1/2" bits.

I'll have a report in a few weeks, but these are for my CNC.

do they make downcut bits? I'd imagine that would always push the work down, so it doesnt suck into the tool...
however, your chips/dust will be pushed down into the work... and i dont know if that could mess up your finish in the end.
Doug
twizzstyle
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Post by twizzstyle »

I use a 1/4" down cut bit on my cnc when cutting out cores. Does a great job of not pulling things up at all, dust collection seems to be no different than a normal upcut bit.
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