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split ends

Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:54 pm
by the.quass
Hi everyone,
Quick question. My cores crack/split quite easily along the grain in the tip and tail. They are 2mm thick. I am guessing as long as I keep it flat when pressing the epoxy will fix this up? Incorrect? Thoughts?

Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:26 pm
by sammer
Should be alright, Ive had a couple where the glue line came apart and they look and ski pretty darn good.

sam

Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:37 pm
by MontuckyMadman
Nordicas cores arnt even glued togather when they hit the cassette

Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:48 pm
by the.quass
Thanks guys, first build so I'm a little antsy :)

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 3:40 am
by knightsofnii
yea i think everyone's had this issue at the tips when we get down to a 1.6-2mm tip. you can always just re glue it with wood glue if it scares you.

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 1:17 pm
by Richuk
Good luck with the first build man!

Nordica - the old video of the wood shop used to show a guy stapling the stringers, but that's no longer the case.

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 2:33 am
by falls
Probably not 100% relevant to your problem, but I will put this in here anyway rather than starting a new thread.
I have been using a flush trim bit to cut the ends of my cores to length.
Always had trouble with the router exiting the cut and splitting the laminate along its glue lines. I would try to climb cut from the other side to complete it, which would mostly work. At worst it would actually chip a piece of core off when it would exit the cut and I would have to try and glue it back on.
This is wood working 101, but I like a lot of other on here I would guess, were not experienced woodworkers prior to starting ski building. The last cores I did I supported the cut with another piece of core cutoff and it stops the router breaking off the edge of the core when you exit the cut.
Support your cuts - woodworking 101 apparently
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Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:23 pm
by Dr. Delam
Support your cuts - woodworking 101 apparently - Right on Falls.

I use a similar method where the core is supported by the end of the table. But I use a jigsaw with a downward cutting blade and a speed square as a guide.

Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:24 am
by skimann20
I use my chop saw. radial arm saw, or my table saw with sled. Which ever is not covered with ski building stuff ;-) Router or Jig saw were not two that i would have considered, very interesting techniques.

Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 12:12 pm
by the.quass
Another core related question. As I am not using sidewalls would I still need to cut my core out exactly to shape before pressing? I was thinking I would leave it slightly oversize and trim this when I cut the board out. Is this dumb? I can still rabbet (sp?) For the edge prior

Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 2:29 pm
by skidesmond
Leave it over sized by a few mm or so on each side. You can still rabbet for edges, just account for the additional wood sidewall.

Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:43 pm
by the.quass
Thanks skidesmond. Also, i have heard people rabbet by eye so any extra gap will just fill with epoxy or does it need to be perfecto.

Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:46 pm
by Dr. Delam
Using a fence or roller guide on your router makes it super easy to get a tight rabbet. I give it about 1 mm of wiggle room.

Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:02 am
by vinman
Just use a rabbet bit with a guide bearing. I use a 1/2 inch rabbet at .8mm. I know I'm mixing units...

Your rabbet width may vary depending on your sidewall thickness and how much you leave as extra that gets cut off in the flash. I leave ~3 mm in the flash.