FFC winter log
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
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- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
- Contact:
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- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
- Contact:
Found a solution to get a proper bonding between topsheet and paint as well as paint and laminate. Epoxy with flexibilisator and pigments. When I tried to rip of the topsheet it delaminated in the fiberglass. And in my opinion it looks gorgeous with the semi transparent decksheet and the flax laminate:
Cheers, Reto
Cheers, Reto
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
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- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
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its the layup I planed for the ski, I'm not even sure if I mentioned it before:
Topsheet
epoxy paint
UD Fiberglass
Biax flax fiber
then the core and flax and fiberglass again. Flax is a natural fiber with more or less the same stiffness as fiberglass at half the density.
I probably going to produce the whole deck laminate with vacuum infusion and glue it then onto the core to have a perfect void free finish.
And the latest design iteration - but that might change again. I'm good in changing my mind
Cheers, Reto
Topsheet
epoxy paint
UD Fiberglass
Biax flax fiber
then the core and flax and fiberglass again. Flax is a natural fiber with more or less the same stiffness as fiberglass at half the density.
I probably going to produce the whole deck laminate with vacuum infusion and glue it then onto the core to have a perfect void free finish.
And the latest design iteration - but that might change again. I'm good in changing my mind
Cheers, Reto
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- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
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Ah sry, I didn't get that. Honestly I have no clue what kind of top sheet that is. Its just something which was laying around here...chrismp wrote:I think what Twizz wanted to know is what type of topsheet material you're using (i.e. manufacturer and model). And I kinda want to know that too
For me it feels like PE. One side treated for bonding, a protective film on the other side. And it is .4 mm thick and therefore way too heavy for touring skis...
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- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
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so my thread was already quite far down, time to show some progress. But things go on slowly because my shop is not where I live...
But I managed to make all the templates for my fatties:
Cut out one base:
Modify a pair of pliers:
Cut out the balsa cores and glue the sidewalls on:
So far everything went super smooth - really frightening if everything turns out like planed
But I managed to make all the templates for my fatties:
Cut out one base:
Modify a pair of pliers:
Cut out the balsa cores and glue the sidewalls on:
So far everything went super smooth - really frightening if everything turns out like planed
Looks good. Do you only have balsa or is there something harder under the binding screws?
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
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A few questions on the balsa if that's ok.
Did you get it from a reseller or direct from manufacturer?
What was the pricing like? Minimum order?
I am thinking of trying to get some to make a lighter ski for my girlfriend for touring.
PS. Most people don't cut out their base shapes until just before layup. Often it's ok but a lot of people have also experienced deformation of the plastic if it goes through temperature changes after being cut out - end result being asymmetry and not matching your template.
I cut my base material to length and lay it between 2 sheets of MDF for a few days to let it relax and flatten. Routing the shape from the template and puting the edges on is the last thing I do before laying it in the mold and laying up the skis.
Did you get it from a reseller or direct from manufacturer?
What was the pricing like? Minimum order?
I am thinking of trying to get some to make a lighter ski for my girlfriend for touring.
PS. Most people don't cut out their base shapes until just before layup. Often it's ok but a lot of people have also experienced deformation of the plastic if it goes through temperature changes after being cut out - end result being asymmetry and not matching your template.
I cut my base material to length and lay it between 2 sheets of MDF for a few days to let it relax and flatten. Routing the shape from the template and puting the edges on is the last thing I do before laying it in the mold and laying up the skis.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:06 pm
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You can get the cores directly via Bcomp. These cores are test planks which can be ordered without any minimum quantities. They cost around 15€ a piece (piece, not pair).
These cores make quite a difference in weight but they are a little tricky to machine...
And thanks for the remark with the base. I cut the snowboard base in half two weeks ago and stored it flat since. So hopefully they won't warp. If yes I have to redo that bit. Right when I claimed everything went perfectly
These cores make quite a difference in weight but they are a little tricky to machine...
And thanks for the remark with the base. I cut the snowboard base in half two weeks ago and stored it flat since. So hopefully they won't warp. If yes I have to redo that bit. Right when I claimed everything went perfectly