Kampai Custom

Document your personal work here. Show photos, movies, and share your secrets.

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gav wa
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Post by gav wa »

DUDE!!! That will look sick on a board or ski. With the detail possible with a laser you could do some gorgeous topsheets.
The bulky stuff I have seen already looks cool but fine detailed stuff would look awesome, how fine a line would you think you could achieve?

Would the standard option on Inkscape for Plasma tool paths work? Plasma is pretty much just a type of laser anyway.
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richie
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Post by richie »

gav wa wrote:DUDE!!! That will look sick on a board or ski. With the detail possible with a laser you could do some gorgeous topsheets.
The bulky stuff I have seen already looks cool but fine detailed stuff would look awesome, how fine a line would you think you could achieve?

Would the standard option on Inkscape for Plasma tool paths work? Plasma is pretty much just a type of laser anyway.
I'm yet to try but there is so many articles out there and youtubes of people with real basic laser burners based on old dvd drive laser diodes...... then you can go a step up and buy decent optics and laser diode and drivers and do a belt driven axis and cheap stepper drives based on the Arduino GRBL cnc software and a simple stepper driver shield for NEMA 17 motors. GRBL cnc is being tweaked I am pretty sure to allow laser diode modulation for the PWM output so instead of modulating spindle speed it will be used to modulate the laser amplitude / power output.

many "shades of burning" should be possible as well as nice fine lines.

If you are using inkscape for plasma then basically its going to be almost identical and you are way ahead of me mate.

Give it a go for a few hundred bucks you will have a shit load of fun! Let me know how you go if you beat me to it!!!!
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki

Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
gav wa
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:58 pm
Location: Perth

Post by gav wa »

I forgot to put up a photo of the board I made for the missus. She has been a skier for years because she has a dodgy ankle and learning to board would make it play up a bit. After a little bit of instruction every so often she got to the point that she had picked up enough she didn't stress her ankle so much so I then had to make her a board to progress on.
It's obviously a pretty easy flexing board with a bit of rocker in the tips to keep it catch free.
The Japanese is the kids names that a friend in Japan drew on some paper for us a couple of years ago. So I scanned it and incorporated it into the topsheet.
Image
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gav wa
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Post by gav wa »

I also decided to make a CNC. Considering I used to run big machines up to about 60 tonne I figured I should probably make my own.
So when I saw one of those cheap Chinese hobby machines turn up on the local trading site for a bargain price because the guy couldn't get it to work I grabbed it. It only has 600mm by 400mm of travel on like a 700 by 500 work space.
They look like this (google image)
Image

They have some good point, some bad too. The water cooled spindle isn't bad once you program the VFD properly.[/img]
gav wa
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Location: Perth

Post by gav wa »

So then I ordered a new 2000mm ballscrew and some linear bearings, rails etc and made it long enough to do cores and bases with ease.

Image

I made some basic mods to improve the rigidity a heap too. She's a pretty sturdy rig now.
The vacuum base is now half way done and when I get a chance next week to finish it I'll have a completed photo.[/img]
gav wa
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Post by gav wa »

First project on it will obviously be a dust collection set up, HAHA. With it in that corner like that it'll make a hell of a mess real quick. Got a cyclone separator on order so just need the ducting and the dust skirt around the spindle.
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richie
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vacuum cyclone

Post by richie »

gav wa wrote:First project on it will obviously be a dust collection set up, HAHA. With it in that corner like that it'll make a hell of a mess real quick. Got a cyclone separator on order so just need the ducting and the dust skirt around the spindle.
I just built a mean as cyclone from a 44 gallon drum, its a heavy duty drum as opposed to some lighter ones I was advised would cave in under the vacuum, I cut the lid out and took sharp edges off, made a thick 36mm 2 layer plywood lid with approx 100mm holes with a perfect fit for the the inlet and outlet ducts, and then made an angled ducting for the inlet to direct into the spin...... Its inline with my 2HP dust extractro and so far I have seen only a tiny amount of fine dust come through to the extractor and the cyclone is taking I recon 99% or more, not 95% way way more.........

Want pics I can supply....

cheers
Rich

ps nice job on beefing up and extending your wee cnc thats excellent!
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki

Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
gav wa
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Post by gav wa »

Richie, yeah man the bit I've got coming is just the cyclone cone bit with in/out connections for the vac and the big hole in the bottom for the drum. I have been tossing up whether to put it on a big drum. I'm starting to get a bit tight for room now but I could run it all outside through a hole in the shed.
gav wa
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Location: Perth

Post by gav wa »

I got the vacuum top piece added.
Here it is just after cutting some brackets for the missus.

Image

And a few basic drag knife tests.
So far I'm pretty happy with the home ground drag knife bit. I'll see what sort of tool life I get though, but it's solid carbide and the blades that other types use are only hardened steel so hopefully should be pretty good.
The funny cutout bottom right is milled not drag knife, that's why that cutout has hairy bits hanging off it.

[/img]Image

Image[/img]
gav wa
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Post by gav wa »

I think the next project on the list might have to be the golden unicorn, The fabled CNC edge bender. I've thought through a few different designs and drawn some stuff up. Shouldn't be too difficult to build, but will take a little bit of calibrating make the bending axis equal accurate bend radii.

I still don't understand why so many people anneal their edges. What's the point in buying hardened steel edges if you are going to soften them in the area that probably gets most of the work. Unless you are able to very carefully monitor the temp range so still below the recrystallization range and maintain that temp accurately (which is actually called process annealing and from memory only works on work hardened steel) then to me it's just building a product with softer edges than the mass produced stuff.
Also the process most people use is actually called normalizing not annealing as annealing requires controlling the temp on the cooling process to slow the cooling.

I guess it makes edge tuning quick and easy at least, soft metal files pretty quickly.
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

They only heat the tip and tail and then they have very good conformation to the mold and dont need to prebend at all for tip and tail rise.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
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falls
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Post by falls »

snowboard tip/tail molds can be significantly larger radii than a lot of ski molds as well (+ the tip/tail shapes are much tighter bends than a snowboard - except the points on your swallow tails).
3/4 wrap is way easier to do and a lot of people on here are just building for themselves and 3/4 holds up fine on the hill. and saves some weight.
I just bent my first full tip wrap after several aborted attempts in the past. It takes patience and practice.
There's a theory that having edge around the tip/tail acts as a wedge with the teeth being pushed between the base and lower glass layer with each impact and this accelerates delmainations. That's one of the reasons for 3/4 wrap too. Hard edges are tough an propagate the impacts better or can crack. Maybe softer edges around the tip/tail is good because the metal absorbs the impact with slight deformation and not as much force is applied on the teeth as a wedge? Just can't be too soft so it gets severely deformed.
I don't think you need to detemper the edges to get a good bend, but it is really helpful for bending the edges into a really tight tip/tail mold on a ski without having to build another device that bends the tip/tail up after you have attached the edges.

Good luck with the CNC bender. I just uploaded a video of one that does the shape of the ski/board and also the tip/tail upturn as well. You can't get much idea of how it works though
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
gav wa
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Post by gav wa »

I'd like to try a 3/4 wrap one day. It's obviously an easier and quicker edge to bend. At the moment I find the benefit of having the steel there to guide my cut when cutting off the flash is a big help though.

I just updated my CNC control so I have 3 spare stepper drivers and a breakout board ready for when I find time to try making the bender. Might be a while off though.
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vinman
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Post by vinman »

I just mark the base material with a white pencil line to guide my cut then sand the tip to shape.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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richie
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Post by richie »

gav wa wrote:I'd like to try a 3/4 wrap one day. It's obviously an easier and quicker edge to bend. At the moment I find the benefit of having the steel there to guide my cut when cutting off the flash is a big help though.

I just updated my CNC control so I have 3 spare stepper drivers and a breakout board ready for when I find time to try making the bender. Might be a while off though.
MonkeyCAM 4.0.4 does the base material cut for any edge wrap you like, partial or full....... cheers
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki

Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
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