bell style router bit

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mgmarshall
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:40 pm
Location: Alberta, CAN

bell style router bit

Post by mgmarshall »

Does anyone know where one could find the bell-shaped router bit in Canada? It looks like I can only find ones online for $150 ish! Yikes!

ps. this would be the bit used to trim excess material once the ski is pressed. I would like to avoid building some sort of jig and just run the base of the router on the base of the ski...

Thanks.
twizzstyle
Posts: 2204
Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

Post by twizzstyle »

I'm not entirely sure what you're after, what is a bell-shaped router bit?

Do you want to put a straight bevel on the side of the ski after you've trimmed off the flashing and sanded the sides flush with the edge?

Or do you want a roundover bit to put a curved filet on the side?

I use a dovetail bit that I added a bearing to. I can't remember what I paid, but it wasn't much, probably less than $50 total for the bit, bearing, and a shaft collar to keep the bearing in place. I use a cheapo Harbor Freight trim router, running it on the base.
mgmarshall
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:40 pm
Location: Alberta, CAN

Post by mgmarshall »

Hey Twizzstyle,

A bell shaped bit is another name for a undercut chamfer bit. Pretty cool piece of kit, but apparently hard to come by.

http://www.festoolcanada.com/power-tool ... 5mm-492668

I had never thought of just using a dovetail bit! That is just genius. How do you secure a bearing to the shaft, or does it just float?
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Dr. Delam
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Location: Truckee

Post by Dr. Delam »

If you are just going to run the router on the base I would shim it to achieve the angle. This way you can make any degree you want and not be limited to what is available to buy.

Image
sammer
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Location: Fernie B.C.
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Post by sammer »

One of these is cheaper than the one you posted.

http://www.blankslateskis.com/router-bits/

But the Dr's idea is way cheaper than both.
Plus it makes your router base bigger and less tippy.

I've got one like Twizz and have successfully used it a few times.
But most times end up having to fill the gouges when the bearing comes off the ski edge.

sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...

Best of luck to you. (uneva)
twizzstyle
Posts: 2204
Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

Post by twizzstyle »

Yeah you definitely have to be careful about keeping the bearing on the edge, but I generally do fine.

I sized my bearing so its outer diameter is just slightly smaller than the cutting diameter of the router bit. This gives me a small lip on the sidewall above the edge, for filing edges over the life of the ski. You want this lip. The bearing is held in place with a shaft collar - its stuck between the collar and the actual head of the router bit, so it can't budge.

Mine looks just like the one linked above from BlankSlate, I just have a shallower angle.
skidesmond
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Location: Western Mass, USA
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Post by skidesmond »

Dr. Delam wrote:If you are just going to run the router on the base I would shim it to achieve the angle. This way you can make any degree you want and not be limited to what is available to buy.

Image
This is the method I use also. I use double sided stick tape.A tilt router base would be perfect if your make of router offers one.

Working on a router table for general wood working projects but looking to use it for ski building work too.
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