Ski Builders Forum

What methods are people using to bevel their topsheets (if you choose to do so). I have been putting a 45 degree bevel on our topsheets using a combination of filing/scraping. I thought I was going to be able to do this with a small router, but the top of the ski has too many changing contours for a consistent bevel. After seeing Moment (and a couple others) use a palm sander, I tried this method. All I can figure is they use PBT, not nylon, and it sands much easier because this was ridiculously difficult. 5-axis CNC (like RTC) is the clear winner, but short of that - what solutions have others come up with?

Note: again, I am not referring to sidewall beveling. That is a separate topic.

I use a laminate trimmer from the bottom using the steel edge as a guide, top sheet contours dont have any effect this way

I deleted my post since it was way off topic.

After beveling my sidewalls I just block sand the top edge of the top sheet to knock off the burr. I use 60 grit sandpaper and go all around the ski perimeter. I now only use sublimated PBT topsheets and they hold up very well and don't really chip but they do tend to wear down from skiing, especially at the tips. I like to find some metal tip guards like those found on so many ski brands.

Cheers,
-S

I should clarify, I am not talking about sidewall beveling. I am talking about strictly topsheet beveling. While sidewalls are often beveled between 3 and 30 degrees (from vertical), production skis often have an additional topsheet bevel of between 45 and 60 degrees (from vertical). Because this bevel follows the thickness of the topsheet, running a router along the base seems to be out of the question. See RTC's 45 degree topsheet chamfer (after finishing a 4 degree sidewall bevel) at 2:00: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKLYW9SnIqk

Oooohhh
You are talking less than 1mm here. Try pulling a rough file across the edge

I use a tiny little thumb plane to bevel my topsheet.
Prior to that I just used a razor knife.
Just a matter of keeping a consistent angle.

sam

I was going to post this thread too.
I have always bevelled just by sanding (wood veneer or PBT topsheets), but lately been starting on nylon topsheets and the last pair I did don't really have any bevel after sanding the usual amount.
I remember the guys from ON3P saying the change from PBT to nylon was difficult for topsheet bevelling.

Try using a razor blade. Hold it almost perpendicular to the top sheet with the bevel at your best approximation of 45 degrees. Put your thumb on one side of the blade and index and middle finger on the other either side of the top sheet edge and drag it towards you. It takes a little practice but you can get a nice clean continuous cut this way very quickly. It does get a little trickier around the tips but if it stutters at all or I can't get it all in one continuous perfect cut, I just hit it with a fine file. Hope this makes sense. I didn't really get it until someone showed me.

I use a tilt base router and 15 deg bevel bit set at 30 deg to trim the top sheet and put a shoulder into the top couple mm of the sidewall. This ends up looking like a hip roof style sidewall and sets the top sheet back a couple mm to reduce wear and chipping.

we use an old router blade, as long as its not the helical cutter type. This is all a hand job after the scrape you have to sand with nice paper and get it smooth all the way around.

Razor blade + Sheet sander. Best, most consistent method we have found.

I use a mini wood plane. Its really small like 1.5" x 0.5"

Thanks guys for all the input. It sounds like I will be trying either a card scraper or a mini spoke shave. Funny thing is, if it were 80yrs ago, we would have a slew of great woodworking hand tools to choose from...AND nylon wouldn't be invented until next year!

i do the tips on the grinder, after i get the glue and the tip shaped right on the grinder, i do a few passes to bevel/smooth the topsheet and when it's done you can see the tip fill sticking out some, which is then a pinch of a barrier.

for the rails, sometimes we run one very, very light pass on the grinder to smooth the topsheet, but often I use a sanding block and some 150 grit.
I've done the razor blade dragging thing, and still do sometimes to deburr, but always follow up with sanding.

PS don't ever check it by running your finger along, fiberglass/epoxy splinters really suck ass.