Weird Room 2015

Document your personal work here. Show photos, movies, and share your secrets.

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IslandRider
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:00 am
Location: Kelowna BC

Weird Room 2015

Post by IslandRider »

Got a bit of work done on the first build of the season. Going to try a split this time for my GF. Plan is for an xmas present, so may be a bit slow with the updates. Trying quite a few new things with this one so fingers crossed all around.

First try with smooth-on 305 sidewalls. Sealed the channel with watered down wood glue after cutting. Mixed and poured urethane with no pressure or degassing and it came out pretty much mint. Even got pretty much bang on with amount out of a CAD model which was nice. Ended up with about 100ml left both parts of a 'sample' kit. Board is 151cm long, channel cut with 2-3mm cleanup allowance. Don't think the small kit would give enough for skis, but should be able to do most size snowboards.

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Pretty cool stuff to watch. At this point I was seriously considering if I'd made a big mistake.
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Bottom side mostly cleaned up. I did one more skim pass after this to get rid of the last of the spillover.
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About 10lbs of inserts to go in.
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Decent fit after spending 2 weekends 'tuning' the CNC. I almost cuts circles now. Almost.
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Edge rebate
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Topside done. 1.5-7-6.5-7-1.5 ish.
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Finished core. Still having trouble with blow out on the outer fir strips. Works fine with climb milling and less than about 30% stepover (left side) but not so much @ 70% conventional milling on the other side. Next core I'll spend the time to generate a proper toolpath to deal with this rather than doing it all in one shot. Also probably got a bit greedy with cutter size and pass depth.
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Dtrain
Posts: 549
Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 12:03 pm
Location: Prince Rupert/Terrace B.C.

Post by Dtrain »

Looks rad man! I'm fired up! Can't wat to see it all come together
Dtrain
Posts: 549
Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 12:03 pm
Location: Prince Rupert/Terrace B.C.

Post by Dtrain »

For sealing, you just mixed wood glue and water and used a paint brush?
IslandRider
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:00 am
Location: Kelowna BC

Post by IslandRider »

Yup. 1:1 glue (weldbond, but probably doesn't matter) and hot water. Painted on two coats and let it dry overnight. Did a small test batch and it mixes almost completely bubble free, so I was skeptical that degassing in a vacuum pot would do much. Everything I've read about that stuff is that moisture is what causes bubbles. Now I just need to get some pigments. And since I'm basically out now I'm going to try a much cheaper version of the same stuff for the next build.
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chrismp
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Location: Vienna, Austria

Post by chrismp »

What part of the process is shown in pictures 2 and 3? To me it looks like you flooded your channel with the mixture of water and wood glue. Or is that already the urethane?
gav wa
Posts: 381
Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:58 pm
Location: Perth

Post by gav wa »

That looks like smooth on in the process of going off.

I do the same process but I brush on some epoxy into the channel. I started doing it after I noticed how good the left over smooth on would set in the plastic cup.
IslandRider
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:00 am
Location: Kelowna BC

Post by IslandRider »

Ya, that's the urethane going off. Glue is in the picture because I don't clean up after myself.
IslandRider
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:00 am
Location: Kelowna BC

Post by IslandRider »

Base inlays are my dded nemesis. Cut the two colours on two separate days (which was dumb but it got late the first night), and set the Z height differently for the two, which meant the profiles were just different enough to not fit without 2 hours of trimming. Frustrating part is I've already made this mistake before. Looks like shit in the picture but will clean up ok. Just a lot of hot glue and crazy glue to keep it all inline while I cut the profile next.

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On a more positive note, new drag knife worked awesome. Had great results last year with a ground down cutter shank (thanks Twizz), but this is even better. One pass, cuts through the base material like butter. Made it mainly to see if I can cut veneers with a sharper tool without chipping and breaking and wanting to kill myself.

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Dtrain
Posts: 549
Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 12:03 pm
Location: Prince Rupert/Terrace B.C.

Post by Dtrain »

Love the diy attitude.
Dtrain
Posts: 549
Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 12:03 pm
Location: Prince Rupert/Terrace B.C.

Post by Dtrain »

Worst part abot these type of drag knives is if your blade breaks, and you put a new one on it does not track exactly the same . There is just a sniff of wiggle room when the blade tightens down. Finicky is term that comes to mind. We cut 100plus bases over two days. It was emotionally draining to say the least.lol
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MontuckyMadman
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm

Post by MontuckyMadman »

If your breaking blades on base i think your toolpathing is wrong or your surface is not sifficient for this type of activity. Look at porex.
IslandRider
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:00 am
Location: Kelowna BC

Post by IslandRider »

Been a hectic several weeks since last update. dded up first split so had to start over. Lame. Second one turned out decently though.

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First wall ornament, was paying so much attention to keeping the inside edges aligned and the core straight on the bases that I missed the fact that it was all set ~2" to far back in the mold when I pressed it. Stupid mistake, won't happen again.

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Take 2

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Don't have split hardware yet, so I made some plates to adapt standard binding pattern and she can ride it like this for a while. A few blemishes I'm not happy about, but I started rushing because there was a deadline.
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Now that I was a week behind schedule scrambled to throw together some new skis for me. Super stoked with how they turned out. Aside from a slight wrinkle in the tail of one top sheet they're pretty much blemish free. Put them in the press at 5am after working all day, didn't notice the cat track got hung up one corner. Oh well, easy to fix next time. Nice to see some progress. They turned out a bit heavier that I wanted, ~10lbs for the pair. Also the biggest pair I've made by far so I'll call it a baseline #

I've officially outgrown my dust collector.

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Using a new epoxy that is way cheaper that West, made for compression molding, and lays up super nice. Dries hard as glass though, and is a royal pain to get off the bases so I need to get better at keeping it off in the first place. Huge shout out to Bill at Sportsrent in Victoria for helping getting them dialed in. So nice to deal with someone into what I'm doing as opposed to arguing with idiots at the box store. 15-20 passes on the belt with 60 grit and still some epoxy on the base near the edges. Oh well, won't notice in deep snow I'm sure. I'll clean them up eventually.

Off to Revy to shred for 5 days, STOKED!
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

You know you could have repressed that board you had missaligned. Just cook it 210f for an hour and cool under pressure. It wont be perfect but it wouldnt be wall art.
IslandRider
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:00 am
Location: Kelowna BC

Post by IslandRider »

Could have if I had heat at the time. Blankets showed up 3 days later and I haven't hooked them up yet. Not sure it will work now that the epoxy is cured, but I haven't completely given up on it yet just low on the priority list.
twizzstyle
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Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

Post by twizzstyle »

I love the graphics on the new skis, is that printed on rice paper?

I just saw your homemade drag knife, looks really slick. I'm curious if you machined it on your CNC router? I've been dying to try aluminum on my router, but haven't had the guts. I have a CNC mill, but it has a TINY working area so it's very limiting. I use lots of cutting oil on it though when cutting steel or aluminum, which I can't do on my big CNC router with the MDF spoilboard.
Last edited by twizzstyle on Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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