Beginners Questions

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:25 pm

IMHO, I think cap construction has normally be associated with cheaper skis and torsionally soft. Sandwich have been associated with race skis or higher quality and torsionally stiffer skis. I still think generally that it's true.

BUT, I have a pair of Atomic Redster GS skis and they are cap. I also have a pair of Fischer GS FIS skis that are sandwich. Both are excellent racing skis. I was really surprised Atomic made a cap racing ski. I felt Atomic was cheaping out or that they may be too soft. Not the case.

I also have a pair of Fischer all mountain skis that are cap and they are torsional soft, so much so I don't ski on them anymore.

So, there's a bit more to it than a "cap is this" and a "sandwich is that". It also depends on the internal structure and laminates used.

heke · Post by **heke** » Wed Mar 02, 2016 6:44 pm

Thanks for answers..I think I will continue with Cap as it feels for me a good way with vacuum. I will try the sandwich also but with mould side walls.

Akiwi · Post by **Akiwi** » Wed Mar 02, 2016 11:29 pm

As said, Important is what is inside.

The cap construction got a bad name as a lot of cheap skis use an outer cap with a foam core. Which of course is easy and cheap to make and is nice and light..
I think a cap construction on a good wood core makes great skis.

heke · Post by **heke** » Sun Mar 06, 2016 8:35 pm

i have been read the forum but did not found a picture of adjustable planing form/mould, to plan the wood in final dimenssions. ( sorry bad english

). Currently I just have two plywood pieces and some cut plywood pieces to adjust the height. After some try & error the upper plywood is like cheese..quite alot of holes. I'm looking for some simple sollution. I have seen some pictures but can't find those again.

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:17 am

http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... laner+crib

moonchild · Post by **moonchild** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:03 pm

Probably it is a beginner question so I will ask it here. Accidentally, I sanded bottom of the wood core unevenly. Too powerful belt sander:). Will epoxy fill uneven core and make base flat, or will I get uneven base. I assume / hope it will be flat. When i put a patch of carbon underneath bindings at the bottom of the core, base comes flat. I use vaccum.

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:47 pm

If you use epoxy to fill in the unevenness with epoxy you'll spend a life time getting the core flat. You're better off making a new core. Nobody said this was easy.

heke · Post by **heke** » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:51 pm

Second ski pair on way.. I was little stupid and made the wood core quite short. If I put 2 mm tip spacer her will the ski broke? This is tip part. I will have 760 g/m2 GF on both side of wood core and 0.6 mm veneer on top.

PS. Plastic sheet 2 mm between mould / ski is missing.

PS2 this aluminium bar is usefull to roll curve to tail / tip.

SHIF · Post by **SHIF** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 4:58 pm

Probably okay with that much tip filler. Look at the Rossignol S7 series skis with the hollow tip fill, those skis have about as much filler as you are using on this pair.

-S

heke · Post by **heke** » Tue Mar 08, 2016 8:28 pm

Thanks, I made a wooden tip spacer using veneer. I thought it might be more flexible than plastic and also much lighter. Lets see how long it last.

EDIT: I think that I will make new wood cores that are longer. Cost for new wood is not much compare to all other part if the skies brokes due this.

heke · Post by **heke** » Sat Mar 12, 2016 3:59 am

If surface of veneer is not flat but it is with big & small waves is it usable? Will it be flat in vacuum?

heke · Post by **heke** » Sat Mar 12, 2016 8:44 pm

heke wrote:If surface of veneer is not flat but it is with big & small waves is it usable? Will it be flat in vacuum?

Answer: Are you stupid or what, it is usable. Just soak the veneer with epoxy and let it stay for a while. Remove all loose epoxy and put it on the skies.
If you leave lot of epoxy to veneer result will not be nice..so first ski was not nice second was very good.

heke · Post by **heke** » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:35 pm

http://quiverkiller.com/collections/frontpage

Is someone using these in the skies? I have a lathe and was thinking to make some using brass instead of stainless steel.. My small lathe & stainless stell don't work well together

Would brass be good enough? It would be easy & fast to make some.

YEs.. after re-thinking I could get some Stainless steel M8 bar and make M5 tread. One 1 m ( 3ft) M8 stainless steel bar is here 5€<>6 -7 USD.

Akiwi · Post by **Akiwi** » Wed Mar 16, 2016 1:02 pm

Would be a lot of work as you need 18 for a set of bindings

I got the tip from PMG to use Rampa-Muffen from schraubenking.at.
I used 10mm Typ C Thin walled M5.

These..
http://www.schraubenking.at/M5-x-10mm-R ... kt-P003857

heke · Post by **heke** » Wed Mar 16, 2016 10:21 pm

I have a lathe and drilling a hole and making a tread should not be a very big work. Lets see.

Besides this is hobby, as my wife said to me when I told that I will make a pair of skies:" I don't expect that making skies will cheaper than bying but I know that it is good for your brains."

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