Through the thorns to the stars

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motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

Now we try to experiment with printings on our transparent base and top sheets. We try to print with the help of silkscreening and ultra violet, also we have found out that solvent inks are the cheapest. But there some minuses. The companies that use such type of printing don't have white color(( the second minus is that it is possible to print only on our topsheet since topsheet plastic is thin in comparison to base plastic. In this case we decided to use some kind of white film which will be laid between fiberglass and topsheet transparent abs/tpu plastic or paint back side with white color.
I am not sure, have anybody experimented with it?...

Also we have not tried sublimation. But it suits only for our base material.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

After a little preparation and procurement of materials, we decided to make our first true boards with different dimensions.
Also we have moved on a new place where it will be more comfortably to work since our last one was not heated and had lack of space.
Once we decided on shape of our snowboards we began to make bottom adjustable mold.
In the past we we made molding of pine since it was cheap and was good for experiments. This time we bought MDF. Honestly, this material is really good, despite the fact that dust of this material is harmful and penetrates everywhere.
Here are some pictures of process of our bottom mold construction.
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Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Nice looking bottom mould.
I like how you have made it length adjustable.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

This method is good only for flat or flat beneath feet (rocker) boards.
The next model we wish to build gonna be true rocker, but in this case I don't know how to build it adjustable. May be like camber but conversely.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

We went to a black mark ...
Our "good" wood supplier did a few mistakes. First he glued stringers with width add up to 40 mm instead of 20. And only 4 boards of 20 were without knots.
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Before we got all our equipment we tried to work as manual as it was possible))
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still don't have vacuum cleaners for our vac table. Also our router has broken and it took 2 days to fix it.
Universe blessing we did core as good as possible.
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With all this bad luck we forgot that our epoxy can't glue sidewalls to the core because of its fast action under the temperature. We saw the result the only next day and it was really easy to rip sidewalls. But we tried to use pistol glue. And the result was fantastic. 10 min and we are done.
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Guys that do steel conductors for drilling holes for binding inserts still haven't finished their work. So we did our own made of MDF.
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Following the advice to use nails and insulating tape we did caps for searching inserts.
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Also we did as many holders as it is possible to eliminate sliding this time.
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It seems that everything is ready. And it is time to make a sandwich.
We did one more check of our heat blankets under the pressure, but everything went wrong again((
Last edited by motoman on Sat Dec 12, 2015 8:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
mammuth
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Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 3:48 am
Location: somewhere in the alps

Post by mammuth »

motoman wrote:Before we got all our equipment we tried to work as manual as it was possible))
Teamwork at its best :)

You really go trough the thorns ;)
Tom
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Hi,

that really are a lot of placeholders! Do they only hold the base in place or also the core?

If its only the base:
I worked like you before, but now I have a different method which imo is way easier: Have a look in my journal - GRML, somehow my server is not reachable at the moment so pictures won't load. Its either in here http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4793 or here http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4724

I just tape some excess base material to the base (on its lower side) and fix them to my mould. like this, the placeholders and base cannot move against each other. If you decide to do this, use tape as thin as possible, 0.15mm strong ducktape will leave a 0.15mm uneventy in the base.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

pmg wrote:Hi,

that really are a lot of placeholders! Do they only hold the base in place or also the core?


I just tape some excess base material to the base (on its lower side) and fix them to my mould. like this, the placeholders and base cannot move against each other. If you decide to do this, use tape as thin as possible, 0.15mm strong ducktape will leave a 0.15mm uneventy in the base.
hi,
those you see on the picture keep only base. to keep core we use small wooden cubes. We place four of them. Two on each sidewall. Like on this video (2.21 sec):


Your method is interesting, seems that it requires less materials and will keep cassette clean for longer time.
I like your method to keep core on place, but it is good only in case of epoxy sidewalls.
Still we have not selected or main way to keep core.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Well, my way has changed again, as I do build cap skis now. Now, I screw the tip- and tailspacer to the mold, and then align the wood core on them... As soon as the next layer is on top, it won't move a tad. Happy boardbuilding, nice journal - it shows the "real" way with all that tiny problems that ask for a solution.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

The idea to screw tipspaser to the cassette or mold comes to my head. May be we will try this method.
Is that journal on skibuilders forum?
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Yes, did it here: http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4793
Only works properly with a vacuum press imo, otherwise you have to sink the screws so damn exactly (screw heads below the stuff that should be pressed). Would be too much risk for me.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

I saw this journal. Yes, it is proper way for vacuum press.
The good idea is to use holes in the cassette to fix tipspasers like on this video (2-nd minute):

Probably they have some holes in the mold.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

During testing of heat blankets under the pressure one oblanket burned out.
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After that something happened with controller.
And second blanket was heating up very slowly. We reached only 41 degree and then controller absolutely stop working.
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We were crying...
Time to analyze mistakes. Definitely we shouldn't show off with the creation of own instruments and buy ready-made.
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Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Sorry to hear about your frustrations guys.
Dissapointing after putting a lot of time and effort into something.
Good luck, I hope you work it out.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
motoman
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:52 am
Location: Ukraine

Post by motoman »

Better now than later. We will fix it soon.
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