The Bakery Snowboards

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Minga
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:05 pm

The Bakery Snowboards

Post by Minga »

Hey guys,

the idea of building a snowboard has been stuck in my mind for about 6 six years now and since i’ve been reading in this forum. So first off, I have to thank all of you for this great resource.

Beginning of this year me and a buddy finally made it and found a sweet spot for rent and build up our shop here in Munich. It s been (almost literally) tons of work, way more than I ever imagined and it has taken us about a year to get everything sorted out and set up.

Guess all the veterans here can imagine how excited we are to get first board out of the press soon.


It started when there was suddenly half a ton of steel in front of our shop.
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We adopted the Happymonkey design.
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Gettin the pneumatics worked out
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Working on the molds
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The computations seem to be correct, no deflection! 8)
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Lots of work time for beer
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Yellow poplar for the cores
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Planing it...
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...and clamping it together
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Making the blanks
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Routing them
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Bunch of cores
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We build a Planer jig but unfortunately it didn't work that well. The thickness in the middle of the core was off by about 1mm and the sidewalls (tried ABS and UHMW) got eaten by the planer. The UHMW was also easy to pull off the core. Pretty bad bonding. Guess we stick to ABS in future and try the Kingswood router method.
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Bases...
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...and edges are also ready for pressing.
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Now, we have to finish the heat control and i ll get back to you soon with some fresh pictures of our first boards.
Last edited by Minga on Sat Jul 30, 2016 2:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Akiwi
Posts: 370
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Hey guys, Servus! looks realy great.
Your board looks almost identical to the one I pulled from my press yesterday. Same tip shape.
Nice to see you are drinking an Augustiner. Currently I am on Altenmünster;-)
Where are you in Minga?
If you want, you can try out my Kingswood type adjustable Profile table and see if you want to go that way.
I work in Munich so could easily pop by. Send me a PM.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
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falls
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Location: Wangaratta, Australia

Post by falls »

Sad your planer jig didn't work out well it looks really well built.
You need the sand paper under the core to be as wide or wider than the core otherwise when it goes through the planer the edges of the core flex downwards and then you end up with a top that isn't flat and edges that are thicker than you planned (this is also where you measure your thickness and may be why you didn't get the result you were after).
The other thing is that it is really hard to not get snipe in the tip and tail with the planer jig so it is best to leave the core long and then cut the ends to shape after you profile - cutting off the sacrificial ends where the snipe occurs. Usually 6 inches of extra is enough.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Minga
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:05 pm

Post by Minga »

@Akiwi: we are at the Kunstpark

@falls: thanks for the input. we might try that. another problem which occured(and I guess is pretty common) is that the planer eats the sidewalls. First we thought ABS is even worse than UHMW as it is harder and the planer just ripped it off on the first pass, right where the blade hits the edge when you feed it in. UHMW was fine until it got thin, then there was no bonding at all anymore. we could just pull the whole sidewall off.

Do you have any idea for that(besides a spiral cutter head ;) ) ? I haven't come up with good solution yet to lower the forces on the sidewall.
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Akiwi
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Minga wrote:@Akiwi: we are at the Kunstpark
That is 10 minutes from where I work. I am in Moosfeld.
Like I said, If you want to try my Router Bridge, just let me know.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
pmg
Posts: 479
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Hmm, you planer jig looks so nice, can't image it wont work well.

Some things I did with mine:

1) As the materials we build the jigs from have tolerances, I feed the jig through the planer each time I replace the planer blades. (I set the jig flat of course. Mine is the same way yours is: Bottom, top, and distance pieces in between.) This way I can be 100% sure I won't get uneventies in the core by tolerances in the wood of the jig or by the blades not being set 100,00% correctly.

2) I use double sided tape at the tip and tail. Otherwise it "flatters" (sorry for the german) when it gets thin.

3) I put a screw in the middle of my core to be 100% sure it stays where it should. Of course I have to be very careful to sink the screw's head deep enough.

4) Like falls said, the tip and tail sections aren't very precise. This is when only one of the 2 autofeed wheels presses on the wood. I always have an additional 10cm at the tip and tail section that I cut off after planing the core.
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vinman
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Post by vinman »

Minga wrote:Do you have any idea for that(besides a spiral cutter head ;) ) ? I haven't come up with good solution yet to lower the forces on the sidewall.
Hot glue the core to your sled at the tips and tails. Take less than .5mm per pass. If you see any evidence of sidewall damage in the form of cupping, stop and reglue your core down, this cupping happens when things get loose. Do not try to fix this by planing it more. Chances are you'll rip the sidewalls off.

how you make your sidewall also matters. Try epoxying sidewall to the thin piece of hardwood stringer and gluing it directly to a pre-shaped core.

I can plane cores out to 2.2mm with 1.4mm thick sidewalls (.7mm rabbit)

I've done about 45 pair with this method. I've ruined only 2 sets of cores this way which was due to dull blades and lack of paying attention to the cupping/ letting my cores get loose from the sled.
Last edited by vinman on Tue Dec 08, 2015 2:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
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Akiwi
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

I see you guys are at WerkBox3. Do they have all that woodwork gear there? or are you in various places?
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
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falls
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Post by falls »

Your other option is to plane the sidewall block separately on the jig. Then once they are profiled rip them on a table saw into the strips that you need. This method is good if you plan to make several cores with the same profile.
In production a lot of companies fix these sidewall pieces onto the core with various methods - superglue, double sided tape, staples - temporarily just prior to layup and then the epoxy in layup provides the actual adhesion.

With the UHMWPE you definitely need good surface preparation - sand and flame treat - to get good adhesion.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Minga
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Post by Minga »

@Akiwi: Almost. The Planer there is not wide enough. We went to HEi for that. But its pretty expensive there and I dont know how good the planer(i.e. sharp blades etc.) really is. Besides that, we got everything we need at the WerkBox3.

@falls: By the research I have done on UHMW it seems like it is almost impossible to do a proper treatment without professional equipment. Sounds more like a lottery.

Thanks for all the input on the planer jig. We will definitely consider these tips the next time but also try the router jig in the meantime.

We finally finished our first board today. Service needs to be done and then it s time to bring it to the mountains.



Finished press, base ready for layup
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It looks longer and slimer than it actually is. 161cm and standard width.
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We are pretty happy with the result. Even though the core wasnt perfect and also the edges had their problems it turned out to be pretty nice. Looking forward for the next couple of boards. Time to add some graphics :)
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Akiwi
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Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Congratulations.

Looks like a pretty good result for first try.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
Minga
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:05 pm

Post by Minga »

I haven't posted anything in a while but we have been working quite a bit on this project in the last few weeks. So i ll give a quick update. We decided to give the router methode a try after we had some troubles with the planer. We build a router bridge with a vacuum table. Kingswood style. Here is a little video of it
https://www.facebook.com/TheBakerySnowb ... 093351675/
It works really well but adjusting it s*cks. We got access to some nice fat CNC now so I guess we ll try that next time.

We also pressed a board with wood veneer which worked almost as planed but we had some troubles with air bubbles under the topsheet.
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Those were the worst but tiny air bubbles were all over it. Have you guys any clue what the problem could have been? The veneer sucks up a lot of resin maybe it was already to dry? Also thought about treating it with some clear coat to seal it the next time so it doesnt need so much resin.

Thats it for the moment, need to get to the shop and finish our new molds :D

Oh, we also put together a little FB page with more pics ;)
https://www.facebook.com/TheBakerySnowboards/

Cheers,
Hannes
Minga
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:05 pm

Post by Minga »

We ve changed our setup over the last few weeks and pressed some new shapes. Just tested them on the glacier, really fun soft ride. But we got some delam problems at the area of edge transition. We think it s either the backprinted graphics (direct print onto the topsheet) which didn't stick well or bonding problems with the sidewalls. We now plan to get into the sublimation business, time for some new challenges 8) So here are the pics of the recent builds

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For the next boards we will try some bamboo cores but now it s time for the summer break :)

Cheers,
Hannes
Dtrain
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Post by Dtrain »

Nice guys. How did you print onto the top sheets? Are the veneer of plastic?
Minga
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:05 pm

Post by Minga »

Thanks, the topsheets are a direct backprint. We didnt do it ourself. The veneer is real wood. The red one has no plastic ontop the other two have the transparent part of the topsheet ontop.
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