Splitboard inside edge grinding
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
Splitboard inside edge grinding
When building splitboards the most annoying part for me is to get the inside edges of the board to line up perfectly with each other during grinding and I've been trying to come up with a solution that makes quick and easy work of it.
So far I've had the following ideas:
- Take a belt sander or spindle sander and add a guide right at the lower edge of the sanding belt, clamp board half to a piece of wood with a straight edge with the inside edge of the board half overhanging that straight edge slightly, let the piece of wood ride against the guide so the board above rides against the sanding belt in a straight line.
- Same thing as above but with a router table with guide bushing and a carbide burr bit.
How do you guys make sure that your board halves fit together perfectly?
So far I've had the following ideas:
- Take a belt sander or spindle sander and add a guide right at the lower edge of the sanding belt, clamp board half to a piece of wood with a straight edge with the inside edge of the board half overhanging that straight edge slightly, let the piece of wood ride against the guide so the board above rides against the sanding belt in a straight line.
- Same thing as above but with a router table with guide bushing and a carbide burr bit.
How do you guys make sure that your board halves fit together perfectly?
Pretty straight, but every tenth of a millimeter counts. Lets say you have 0.25mm unevenness in both your edges, that could add up to a 0.5mm gap which is quite visible. Hence my efforts to get the edges perfectly straight after pressing.
Base material warps ever so slightly after cutting out, but it doesn't warp as much once the edges are attached. So you need to find a way to keep the inside edge of the base as straight as possible when attaching the edges and make sure that the edge you're glueing on is also perfectly straight. I cut bases on my cnc and glue on the edges with the base's inside edge clamped against a straight board with the edge in between. If you have a vacuum base template, just leave the vacuum on after cutting the base and attach the edges with vacuum still running.
Base material warps ever so slightly after cutting out, but it doesn't warp as much once the edges are attached. So you need to find a way to keep the inside edge of the base as straight as possible when attaching the edges and make sure that the edge you're glueing on is also perfectly straight. I cut bases on my cnc and glue on the edges with the base's inside edge clamped against a straight board with the edge in between. If you have a vacuum base template, just leave the vacuum on after cutting the base and attach the edges with vacuum still running.
That shouldn't be too hard with some normal edge grinding by hand. 0.25mm are taken away quickly with a rough file.chrismp wrote:Pretty straight, but every tenth of a millimeter counts. Lets say you have 0.25mm unevenness in both your edges, that could add up to a 0.5mm gap which is quite visible. Hence my efforts to get the edges perfectly straight after pressing.
What about an offset router guide base using a flush trim bit?
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
Guess I miss understood your question. Just looked at a Burton split today. Easily .5mm or More between the halves.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
Ha! Glad you now know what I was talking about...there must be a way to get this right! Only one way to find out if the methods I described above work. But that'll have to wait a few more weeks...currently studying for the bar exam, so no time in the shop at all.vinman wrote:Guess I miss understood your question. Just looked at a Burton split today. Easily .5mm or More between the halves.
So kinda like a jointer works? Can't wait to hear your results
You could also try to add a small guide right below the sanding drum and clamp the spliboard to a board with a straight edge that rides along the guide. Think of it like a flush trim.router bit. This is basically the idea I was bouncing around above.
You could also try to add a small guide right below the sanding drum and clamp the spliboard to a board with a straight edge that rides along the guide. Think of it like a flush trim.router bit. This is basically the idea I was bouncing around above.