Page 5 of 6

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:48 am
by heke
I start to make new skies..i don't like making mould using mdf..far too much dust. On the other hand it is quite fast.

Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 3:48 am
by heke
I got the skies from base grainding. I'm supprised, bases looks very nice & flat.

Image

Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 8:06 am
by heke
I made new mould and template for base using mdf.. I hate the dust, I will use plywood next time.

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 4:35 am
by gav wa
Looks like a quality base grind. Nice.

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:12 pm
by heke
Thanks,

I have been sking quite a lot with the skies. Works well, I'm still supprised.

I have start to build next pair; shorter with tail/tip rocker.

Some improvments I'm planing to do:
- side walls were hand planed last time, angle was not enough, now I will use router and 14deg
- rabbet, the edget were lifted up in vacuum app. 0,2 - 0,5 mm, the rabbet was too deep..
- better bending of edges..they were ok, however I can seen some errors..
- heat during vacuum process.. this time room temperature
- I have hopefully made more accurate mould

I have done lot of wood working, I really like it. Even bending the edges is ok. Using MDF is horrible.. never again or I do it outside. I got the MDF almost free of charge.

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 7:59 am
by heke
I have been at Alps for a week. I took two pairs of ski with me, the ones I build works perfectly. I have been sking with those all the time.. lot of powder and some piste sking as well. I'm surprised the skies works perfectly. Also at higher speed and short & long turns. Also at steep forest. I'm very happy with result. 8)

What I'm extremely happy is that I managed to make quite soft tip and enough torsion.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:28 am
by heke
I plane a pair of ski cores to final dimensions. As novice, it takes time to remove the last 0.2 mm from the second core to make the cores equal. I have only manual height adjustment and the scale is 1 mm.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:21 pm
by Akiwi
How are you making your cores? with a hand plane or a machine?

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:25 pm
by heke
I have this machine:
http://www.scheppach-holzmaster24.de/Sc ... obel-254mm

Would be quite easy to adapt a digital measurement system. Maybe I will do it.

Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 10:01 am
by heke
New ski on vacuum..I think I put too much epoxy under veneer. Hope I could remove it.

New oil free vacuum pump is good, don't warm much even running already 6 hours.

Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 1:12 pm
by Akiwi
heke wrote:I have this machine:
http://www.scheppach-holzmaster24.de/Sc ... obel-254mm

Would be quite easy to adapt a digital measurement system. Maybe I will do it.
I need something like that, but it needs to be wider to handle snow board cores.

Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 10:38 pm
by heke
These 254 mm wide you get quite cheap 350€ or less..

So as I thought there are some waves in veneer..for the second ski I use much less epoxy in veneer and put a layer on gf on top to soak epoxy while laminating the other parts. With the first pair the result was perfect. 😊

Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 4:01 am
by heke
I made tail tip spacer in the other ski using veneer and some gf. Other gf only...

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 10:34 pm
by heke
Image
Image

Here is some pictures. The first ski is very bad, there is lot of waves on the veneer, I think that one reason was that epoxy was quite cold and it was turn to solid. I warm up epoxy to the next ski in warm water.

I will get the skies from base grinding soon and test ride.

Skies are 176 cm 100 mm in the middle, 18 m radius, rocker, camber, rocker.


I have rosewood veneer on top.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 11:04 pm
by Akiwi
What sort of temperature is your epoxy / workshop?
In winter when the cellar is a little cold, I pre warm my epoxy by sitting it above the heater for up to an hour before using it. Makes everything much easier... It flows easier for measuring / dosing, and spreads easier in the cloth. Also penetrates the veneer well. It is probably about 25 degrees after I warm it.

But watch that it doesn't go over that temperature or it starts to harden too fast.

After I have everything in the vacuum bag, then I go over the top with a roller to get a flat surface and I help squeeze the sides in to get good tight sides..