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Duravision 5050 as Veneer protection

 
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PIPO



Joined: 21 Aug 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Ushuaia - Argentina

PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:54 am    Post subject: Duravision 5050 as Veneer protection Reply with quote

Hello guys,

On the last boards that I built I used a wood veneer as topsheet, on the pro's side I found that it's really easy to work with and very cheap also. But on the dark side it's kind of fragile on the sidewall edges Sad
So I'm thinking getting a roll of Duravision 5050 to give a little more strenght and durability, as well as better look.






And another thought came to my mind. I want to print graphics on another substrate and use Duravision in the same way, as top cover.

Regarding substrate: what kind of paper do you suggest? I read rice paper hasn't the best bonding properties.
Regarding ink: ¿?


Thanks in advance guys! Here some pictures of the last boards we built





Any advices/thoughts/constructive criticisms will be more than welcome
Very Happy
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Akiwi



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 355
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you intending to apply it?
I built one pair of skis with a clear topsheet over the veneer and had problems with air bubbles and resin buildup under the topsheet.
This is probably because I use vacuum, and not a top press, so the topsheet was pressed down onto the mould resulting that the resin and air bubbles got trapped inside.
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PIPO



Joined: 21 Aug 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Ushuaia - Argentina

PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Akiwi wrote:
How are you intending to apply it?
I built one pair of skis with a clear topsheet over the veneer and had problems with air bubbles and resin buildup under the topsheet.
This is probably because I use vacuum, and not a top press, so the topsheet was pressed down onto the mould resulting that the resin and air bubbles got trapped inside.


Hello, and thanks for your answer. I have a pneumatic press, two 4'' bladders, and aluminum cat-track. Somewhere I read about those same air bubbles problems, but my first guess was that vacuum pressing wouldn't bring that problems.

My first intention is to press it on top of wood veneer, but also thought about printing graphics on regular paper and then press Duravision on top of it. Any thoughts on this?
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mikic1



Joined: 15 Nov 2011
Posts: 168
Location: sweden

PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pressed few skis with wood veneer and topsheet on top, pneumatic press, it worked very well.

I applied graphics printed on acidic free tissue paper from amazon. I printed on it in regular printer, attaching the tissue paper on regular paper with spray adhesive, and quickly printing on it, and separating it from each other. As long as the graphic is inside the snowboard as on your picture, I think you can apply graphics as you like (even acrylic paint), delamination will not occur as long as the graphics is enclosed on all sides.

Cheers,
M
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1426
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

unrelated to putting a topsheet on, but it looks like you could do a bit more on topsheet/sidewall bevel to protect the topsheet from chipping.
Either a more slanted sidewall, or a second steeper angle at the topsheet edge. The last pair I made I did a 7.5 degree sidewall and then rather than taking the whole thing to 15 degrees I just took the upper part of the sidewall to 15 degrees. Then sanding at 45 degrees on the topsheet edge to take the edge of the wood away from the edge of the board a bit. Then contact is made with the tougher fibreglass/sidewall rather than the topsheet itself. It's not perfect but it's better.
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Akiwi



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 355
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do all my graphics on paper with a normal printer. I use tissue paper which I attach to normal paper with masking tape. Of course this limits the size of the printable area. The trick is to allow about 2 cm of normal paper before the tissue paper at the leading edge. If you don't leave this area when the feeding wheels of the printer try to pull the paper in they just make a huge paper jam.
Here is an image of a graphic I printed before It gets cut out. (Just happened to be sitting on my desk)



The paper doesn't go totally transparent, to an image you can cut out pn the edge is good. That's why I put the circle around the image above.

Here is an example of a board with a tissur paper graphic.
Here I used Peel ply, which I sanded, and then oiled.


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gav wa



Joined: 18 Feb 2014
Posts: 325
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've started finishing my sidewalls similar to falls. The last few boards I've done a 10° bevel then when i dress the 45° for the veneer i actually do it quite large so the top 2mm is at a 45° angle.
Also just wondering if you are using a press or vac?
And do you have heat mats?
Its just that your veneer still looks very dry. When i pull a board from the press resin has fully drawn through the veneer to the top and this makes the veneer a lot tougher too.
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