endre wrote:?
The amount of pressure on the cutting surface depends on the planer, but it very high (never a problem). I have profiled several cores with plastic sidewalls on in the planer.
I got a CNC now though
by the way beansnow, the crib in the picture works the same same way as yours.. (if I understood your description)
I endre
did you got a cnc in your home??
what cad program do you use for profiling??mastercam, deskcnc...???
i want build one but i dont know wich is the best program
If you don't have any money or cad skills you can even use excel. (after all, it's just coordinates and simple codes, I can give you an example some time.) But right now I am writing my own program for the cnc files. I have been using Catia for 5yrs as a student. (got to be the world's best cad program), unfortunately it costs ten times what a normal company will ever afford.
on the other hand, you can just download a crack..
I am pretty much interested in that system in order to profile my future cores. I had so many problems with the router and sidewalls ungluing (?), that I don't wanna hear about it anymore.
My question is (endre) : is your system ajustable ? I mean, is it possible to shape cores with different cambre ?
Of course it is possible to control the thickness thanks to the profiler, but is the crib (?) adjustable ?
I have made a profiler inspired by Endre that is fully adjustable. Made one where I could adjust the profile by adjusting bolts lifting some cross bars that have worked fine. However due to the hazel of adjusting all of the screws accurately I have now made one where I adjust the height by inserting thin sheets of plastic allowing me to obtain an accurate height. Just tried this version on one par of cores so far but for these it worked just perfect.
brodo wrote:I have made a profiler inspired by Endre that is fully adjustable.
Great, thx for the answer. Do you have any picture of it ?
I was thinking doing things this way (just an idea, nothing scientific ) :
But actually the idea of adjusting the different height by inserting plastic sheet instead of using kind of bolts alos attracted me. It'd be wonderful if you could tell me more about your system
I really like where this is going. I'm getting close to building a profiler and I've always thought this was the best option. I look forward to seeing an example with the spacers.
i wish i had such a planer, then i could build myself a profiling construction as you did. but these things are barely aviable for me. anyone a good idea how to build something similar with a handplaner? the problem is that my handplaner just can handle 80mm of widt... so i had to build a similar construction as with a router. tricky thing!
what brand is that planer that u using, it looks like a "clas olsson". is it good?
It is a Clas Olsson planer and it's working fine. Not the most powerful planer but no problems with it so far. A more powerful and expensive planer would however most probably make the profiling even faster, smoother and more exact, if you have the money.
How about the above drawing but like brodo says have a set of differenct thickness planed spacers that you could drop into the different locations to create the shape of the crib. Once you dial in the shape you want, attach the spacers together accross the length of the crib creating a comb-like jig for that particular core shape.
You could use a combination of spacers and draw-down bolts.
Today I started to build a planer jig. But about the profiling itself. I was wondering if you profile your core before or after applying the contour to it? And why?
Thanks, Buuk
Make things as simple as possible, but not too simple
- if you use sidewalls, then you obviously have to apply the contour first, glue the sidewalls and then profile the core (otherwise sidewalls won't glue on 2mm thick core for example)
- I wouldn't use a jigsaw to apply the contour around the pin and tails if they are just 2mm...i'd be to afraid to loose my work
- if you use sidewalls, then you obviously have to apply the contour first, glue the sidewalls and then profile the core (otherwise sidewalls won't glue on 2mm thick core for example)
- I wouldn't use a jigsaw to apply the contour around the pin and tails if they are just 2mm...i'd be to afraid to loose my work
That was also what I was thinking and why I was asking this question.
But doesn't a planer break out parts at the tip and tail of the core when planing it a 2 mm?
Buuk
Make things as simple as possible, but not too simple