Ski Builders Forum

I've never been shaping cores with a planner, but I do a lot of woodworking and 2mm is still ok as it lays on the crib. Moreover, it cuts in th sens of the wood fibers (the length of the ski) s it should not break, but still, this is my guess.
I am planning on starting building my crib within 2 weeks. I hope to have more to say about it soon...but actually, I stille have to choose for a building solution.

Therefore...some more drawings (sorry for those who don't like it )

1) might take a long time to find the right heights for each block...


2) same systme as before but no inserts


3) the one with spacers. Probably the easiest one to build and therefore the smartest one (?). However, when adjusting the eight of each block, it needs to be vertically constrained in order to insure that the expected height is respected. This might be done with springs ? Some may only trust the number of spacers...

Buuk wrote:

- if you use sidewalls, then you obviously have to apply the contour first, glue the sidewalls and then profile the core (otherwise sidewalls won't glue on 2mm thick core for example)

- I wouldn't use a jigsaw to apply the contour around the pin and tails if they are just 2mm...i'd be to afraid to loose my work

That was also what I was thinking and why I was asking this question.

But doesn't a planer break out parts at the tip and tail of the core when planing it a 2 mm?

Buuk

You can sandwich the thin parts between two pieces of something more substantial like 1/4" mdf. This will keep them from chipping out when jig sawing.

Even if you use side walls you can leave the tip and tail long for better success in the thickness planer. 3" extra on each end will usualy deal with the snipe and chip-out that occurs when milling. For thin stuff like the tip and tail, I'd leave even more.

Just finished my planer based core profiler that uses spacers. So time for some pictures...

This is what the result looks like. The profiler is made out of 18 mm thick MDF. Over a length of two meters support blocks are placed every 40 mm (centre to centre), this leaves 24 mm of space to place the positioning blocks and spacers. This results in setting the height of the positioning blocks (thickness of the core) at 49 places, so it's a very adaptable construction.


The positioning blocks have exactly the same height and have two holes on top to mount a thin plate and grid tape to place the core at. On the other side (image below) a countersunk hole is made to place a M4 Rampa insert and have additional space for the bolt.


Zoom-out of positioning block...


Aluminium strip material is used to set the height.


The aluminium strip material varies in thickness from 0.5mm to 10.0mm



After adjusting the height a M4 screw is fastened from the bottom (middle of picture) to fix the spacers and positioning before going into the planer.

An overview of what is looks like with only 2 positioning blocks in place.


In the next weeks I will shape my new cores, glue the sidewalls to them and after some testing check out my new planer profiler. I will inform you about the result.

Buuk

Waow, that is awesome !
I like it, simple and surely efficient !

I juste wonder what materials are your spacers made of ?
plastic ? metal ? wood ?

For the spacers the aluminium strip material is used.

ok, i have one or two questions more :

- what kind of wood do you plan to use on the top so that it will bend ?

- do you plan on fixing this plank on the top of the blocks, so that when you screw from the bottom the plank will bend ? Or do you count on the pressure of the planner to bend the top plank ?

thx a lot !

@ alexisg1:
I am planning to use two layers of masonite on top.
One layer will be fixed to the top of some of the blocks (not all of them) and then the second layer of masonite (or maybe multiplex) containing the grid tape will be put on top and fixed to the first layer. This is done to be able to re-use the layer containing the grid tape. This should prevent "wrinkles" in the masonite if you understand what I mean. The pressure of the planer than only has to press the core downwards.

Buuk

I finally got some time over to work on some skis and thereby also bring home some pictures of the crib with thin plastic sheets I now use, instead of the one adjusted by bolts. I find this design working really well with much better confidence in the measures compared with the bolt version.

The pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.se/ThorHenrik.B ... hHAGoAYz1o

I just bought this monster!


A cast iron planer, 60cm wide from the 50th, i think it will be perfect for profiling the way u guys are.

Now i have to start building my own workshop... i dont think dad will be happy if i put it in his garage

Where's the tractor with the power take-off go? That thing looks like it could eat trees!

Buuk wrote:In the next weeks I will shape my new cores, glue the sidewalls to them and after some testing check out my new planer profiler. I will inform you about the result.

Buuk

so so so M. Buuk, how did it go ???

Very busy with my literature survey at the moment... I hope to shape a pair of skis this weekend, but will definitely tell you when I profiled a pair using my new profiler.

Buuk

all right

The good thing with the skibuilders website is that it makes you ask you many questions and upgrade your own process of skibuilding, but it's also an infinite source of solutions to problems, which makes you hesitate even more when it's time for you to build...

Why am I saying that ? I was seeking information about wood sidewalls when I found out this thread ( viewtopic.php?t=992 ) with this versy simple design for the core profiler !



Now that I just bought the wood to copy buuks system, I am wondering if this would not be much easier to replicate...

@Alexisg1: Yes it is easier to build than buuk's profiler, but it does not have the same adjustability. Buuk's profiler allows him to produce almost any core profile imaginable (excluding 3D profiles ofcourse).

I like this concept as well. I did a test core a couple of weeks ago and the only problem I had was holding the core in position. As the board hits the low area, the tips and tails lift slightly causing it to float and shift. I'm going to try some hot glue at the tip location to see if that works. Also, 1 jig one ski, since it is not adjustable.

** I might add that my went the full length. Tip and tail.