tip spacers
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tip spacers
I need help with ptex tip spacers. Epoxy never really sticks very well to them and my skis always delaminate. I think i am flame treating them correctly so any tips on other fixes would be great.
J I B T H E S H I T
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Bucky Mullet
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:26 pm
I actually took an unorthodox approach to tipspacers, as my core profiler caused some grain tear-out at the tips. I therfore cut the tips and tails blunt, just a few cm after the curvature inflected. then I made the tips and tails completely of P-Tex, roughening the bonding surfaces and using standard 5 min epoxy to bond the tip/ tail ends to the core. The spacers were 2 layers of p-tex (left over from the base) with the upper layer having significant overlap with the wood core. This made them a little more flexible in the press as well. The true motivation for this was actually to solve the problem of core allignment. I cut the base to the dimensions of the core until the last 2 cm, them broadened the base to have the same shape as the square cut spacers. This allowed for an "allignment stop" to be glued onto the form that kept the base alligned with the core. As I'm using a vacuum press I can't hammer nails into the form for allignment, and since I'm using a fiberglass cap I've avoided sidewalls. After pressing, I cut the tip's and tails to shape, and really am not worried about water leaking to the core, as this is encapsulated in fiberglass and p-tex.
I've posted a review on the test ride of the skis, and while one delaminated, it wasn't due to the tipspacer approach.
I'm still learning, and will use a different approach on my next pair, probably rivets and a plastic cap, but for now these spacers worked.
Good luck...
I've posted a review on the test ride of the skis, and while one delaminated, it wasn't due to the tipspacer approach.
I'm still learning, and will use a different approach on my next pair, probably rivets and a plastic cap, but for now these spacers worked.
Good luck...
ARMADA, I’ve been using glass and CAP for the tip spacers. It takes 8-10 layers to get enough build up to match the core. The CAP adds flex and toughness to the tip of the ski. I get it from http://sweetcomposites.com/Polyester.html Its listed as Polyester Fabric. CAP is the trademark name. It lays up like glass, but not clear when saturated with epoxy. Cut the pieces on the bias so the fraying only happens at the corners of the piece (the frayed pieces are very short and less of a problem). Cut the length and width you need and use a piece of poly roving form the fabric to lightly stitch the parts together. Then mark the shape of the core and cut all of the layers at once with a pair of tin snips, or very sharp scissors. If the scissors have been used to cut glass they will NOT cut the poly (even one layer). I have two pair of scissors for this reason. One for glass and another for synthetics. This stuff fuzzes when sanded so make sure that it is under glass or it will give you problems. It also eats jig saw blades when you cut the flash.
This was used on my first two pairs of skis. I’m 210 lb and ski very hard. I have had no issues with this method, since the tip material is part of the matrix in the lay up. No delambs so far, and there have been 8 or so people use these skis. I have 10+ days myself.
Hafte
This was used on my first two pairs of skis. I’m 210 lb and ski very hard. I have had no issues with this method, since the tip material is part of the matrix in the lay up. No delambs so far, and there have been 8 or so people use these skis. I have 10+ days myself.
Hafte
i agree with g-man, the factory flamed tipfill material bond is very good.
i have not had a problem to date(snowboards), time will tell. i think it is very wise
to eliminate all the home flame treating as possible by using
durasurf tipfill that is flamed on both sides, this would only require
the flaming of the sidewalls which there is no way around unless you
use wood sidewalls.
my 2 cents
jason
i have not had a problem to date(snowboards), time will tell. i think it is very wise
to eliminate all the home flame treating as possible by using
durasurf tipfill that is flamed on both sides, this would only require
the flaming of the sidewalls which there is no way around unless you
use wood sidewalls.
my 2 cents
jason