I'm looking into building the frame. I have a metal supplier near enough to me that I can get metal, but it's not super cheap. Do you think that using a 4x4 of a hard wood would work for the frame (and be cheaper)? cause I can easily get that, and I think it may work.
I would perfer using wood if it will work, as I have a wood shop in my basement, but it's not exactly cut of for metal working right now.
Wooden Press Frame?
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
i've heard of others using wooden pneumatic press frames but i'm very skeptical of how safe they are. at the very least you could combine some of the wood with some steel tubing to help increase the strength of the frame.
but you mentioned using 4x4 hard wood. what kind of hard wood are you looking at? it may even be more expensive than steel tubing. also it doesn't take much machinery to work with the tubing. a jig saw and a powerful drill (a drill press is even better) are all you need.
but you mentioned using 4x4 hard wood. what kind of hard wood are you looking at? it may even be more expensive than steel tubing. also it doesn't take much machinery to work with the tubing. a jig saw and a powerful drill (a drill press is even better) are all you need.
- Kam S Leang (aka Little Kam)
I am not positive on what type of wood I would use. However, my friend bough some 4x4 steel tubing from the supplier I'm going through, around 20 feet in total, for $100. Seeing as I may need 3-4 times that amount, that's an expensive frame.
I'm waiting to hear back from the supplier though, and I will talk to them about my options.
I'm waiting to hear back from the supplier though, and I will talk to them about my options.
-Pat
Here's the design I came up with. It uses the same type of steel 2x2 tubing around the edges (if it's not obvious, the black pieces), 4 hard wood 4x4 pieces of wood, with a plywood top. Now, the dimensions are the same as the one in the press frame link (I believe little kam's, the all black steel one). Is that for pressing 1 ski at a time, or two?
Do you think the frame will be strong enough (I do, but I want other more 'expert' opinions)?
Also, I can order some HDPE for the top of the work surface (the plywood on the top of the frame) at a very good cost, and I've read elsewhere (I believe grafsnowboards.com) that the HDPE will not bind with the epoxy, so I figure it will make for an ideal work surface. Should I do it?
(PS, ignore the 'wheel' in the fron left, it was left in by mistake, but I will have wheels on it at the end)
http://newschoolers.com/PHP/Pictures/Up ... frame1.jpg
Do you think the frame will be strong enough (I do, but I want other more 'expert' opinions)?
Also, I can order some HDPE for the top of the work surface (the plywood on the top of the frame) at a very good cost, and I've read elsewhere (I believe grafsnowboards.com) that the HDPE will not bind with the epoxy, so I figure it will make for an ideal work surface. Should I do it?
(PS, ignore the 'wheel' in the fron left, it was left in by mistake, but I will have wheels on it at the end)
http://newschoolers.com/PHP/Pictures/Up ... frame1.jpg
-Pat
hi pat,
the inside dimensions of my ski press are just guides. i would first measure the width of your bladder (at it's widest point) and also the intended height of your molds. then i would make the press geared specifically towards these dimensions so that your equipment will fit into the press. it may turn out that my press dimensions are too small for your stuff.
after looking at the press design (nice rendering by the way) i'm thinking there may be a problem. you see, the top and botton wooden beams will still bend. this is because there is nothing really strong or stiff connecting your steel cross members. the vertical distance between the wooden beams will stay the same because of the steel members but the overall shape of your press under operation will look like a person grinning. you'd be surprised as to how much pressure just 20psi is and what it can do to wood. if you substituted the wooden beams with something stronger then i would say the frame is okay to use.
the hdpe is a good idea. if you can get your hands on some i would use it to line the molds as well like Big Kam and Kelvin do. i can''t seem to find some so i'm still using the painter's plastic method.
my work surface is actually just some cheap 1/8" thick material (1'x8') I bought from Home Depot. i covered the surface with some plastic tape and epoxy doesn't stick to it.
the inside dimensions of my ski press are just guides. i would first measure the width of your bladder (at it's widest point) and also the intended height of your molds. then i would make the press geared specifically towards these dimensions so that your equipment will fit into the press. it may turn out that my press dimensions are too small for your stuff.
after looking at the press design (nice rendering by the way) i'm thinking there may be a problem. you see, the top and botton wooden beams will still bend. this is because there is nothing really strong or stiff connecting your steel cross members. the vertical distance between the wooden beams will stay the same because of the steel members but the overall shape of your press under operation will look like a person grinning. you'd be surprised as to how much pressure just 20psi is and what it can do to wood. if you substituted the wooden beams with something stronger then i would say the frame is okay to use.
the hdpe is a good idea. if you can get your hands on some i would use it to line the molds as well like Big Kam and Kelvin do. i can''t seem to find some so i'm still using the painter's plastic method.
my work surface is actually just some cheap 1/8" thick material (1'x8') I bought from Home Depot. i covered the surface with some plastic tape and epoxy doesn't stick to it.
- Kam S Leang (aka Little Kam)
Thanks for the input. I'm still looking to find some better materials for the press. Do you reconmend building the molds first? I was just gonna buidl the press frame, then the bottom mold, and just cut the top mold so that it all fits, but if you say build the molds first, I guess that's what I'll do.
I know where there is some like 1.5x.15 galvanized aluminum (or it looks like it) tubing I can 'take'. Would that work at all better than wood?
I know where there is some like 1.5x.15 galvanized aluminum (or it looks like it) tubing I can 'take'. Would that work at all better than wood?
-Pat
you don't have to actually build the mold first. but i would finalize the dimensions of the bottom mold, however, before you begin building anything. just as long as the inside height of the frame has more than enough room for the mold (especially the tip and tail portions) then you'll be fine. you just fill up the excess room with a bigger top mold.melvs wrote: I was just gonna buidl the press frame, then the bottom mold, and just cut the top mold so that it all fits, but if you say build the molds first, I guess that's what I'll do.
but do keep in mind the width of the bladder. especially the point at which you apply the clamps. if you build the frame too small for your bladder's width then you're pretty much screwed. for the style of press you're making, the bladder length doesn't matter too much. just make sure it's longer than your mold length by at least 6 inches on both sides so you get adequate coverage.
here's the order that i built my stuff:
1. bladder
2. press frame (determined by bladder width and rough estimation of mold dimensions)
3. bottom mold
4. top mold (built to fill up most of the excess volume of the frame after mold, bladder, and materials are inserted).
just remember to take your time and measure carefully. another good option for you since you seem to be handy with the CAD is to simply draw everything up beforehand to check the fit. it's a good way to prevent mistakes. i'm assuming you'll CAD most of the stuff anyway.
Galvanized aluminum or steel? If it's aluminum I would say probably not. But if it's steel then I would say it's okay. My press uses 2.0 x 0.08 steel tubing - the kind you tubing see in home fencing. But I'm not a metal expert. Perhaps someone else with more experience can chime in on this one.melvs wrote: I know where there is some like 1.5x.15 galvanized aluminum (or it looks like it) tubing I can 'take'. Would that work at all better than wood?
hope this helps!
- Kam S Leang (aka Little Kam)
Well.... went looking around today, and ended up going to a Dept. of Trans. near my house and looking throuhg their scrap pile.... found 81 in. long 4" wide x 6" high x1/4 thick steel ibeams.... and a lot of them. Gotta go back for a few more tommorow, but I have all the material for the press now, for free (luckily no one was there!!).
So ya, I'm revising my design in pro/e and I'll have pics up whenever, just make sure you think it'll work.
So ya, I'm revising my design in pro/e and I'll have pics up whenever, just make sure you think it'll work.
-Pat
