What solvents/detergents are people using to clean components prior to layup?
I have been handling bases with sweaty palms and my edges are bound to have some grease from the bender bearings.
What do you use for cleaning and why?
T.I.A.
B.
P.S. After a very slow year long build process (interrupted by a great climbing season here in NE) we are ready to press our first pair. Very excited, but a little nervous.
Cleaning prior to layup
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I use Acetone also. Use caution and read the warnings label. You probably don't need to be told but for those that do... Invest in a box of Latex gloves. Two main reasons, 1) protect your hands / skin and 2) protect your project form further contamination (oils ect..)
Good Luck and let us know how they come out.
rockaukum
Good Luck and let us know how they come out.
rockaukum
To add to Rockaukum’s warning. Epoxies are skin sensitizers especially the hardener. Cleaning up uncured epoxy with acetone and NOT wearing gloves has been linked to users becoming sensitized to epoxies. A reaction to epoxy would be very similar to poison ivy exposure. And once it happens any contact can cause a reaction. That would include sanding on green epoxy. I have heard of people that can no longer use epoxies due to sensitization.
Here are a couple of articles about acetone that may be of interest mostly by Greg Loehr the owner of resin research
http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/deta ... cgi?ID=507
http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/deta ... gi?ID=1029 In this link you will need to scroll down to the appropriate parts. There is a bit about “epoxy safety issues” and one about not using acetone for clean up. This article is about surfboard construction and resin research products and how/why to use them plus some tips on use. Some of it may be useful to some folks as well.
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.c ... 843#116618
For that reason, the flammability, and fumes of acetone I prefer to use denatured alcohol for cleaning parts before pressing. I’ve seen others state that alcohol can leave a film, but I have had no issues with that so far. It seems to evaporate off the parts just fine. I know alcohol is flammable also just not to the degree that acetone can be, and the fumes are alcohol and far less offensive IMO.
I’m hesitant to post stuff like this. I just don’t want to seem condescending, negative or be a know-it-all. I put this up here because I believe most people may not know about these types of issues with the products we use.
Bambi good luck with your project.
Hafte
Here are a couple of articles about acetone that may be of interest mostly by Greg Loehr the owner of resin research
http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/deta ... cgi?ID=507
http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/deta ... gi?ID=1029 In this link you will need to scroll down to the appropriate parts. There is a bit about “epoxy safety issues” and one about not using acetone for clean up. This article is about surfboard construction and resin research products and how/why to use them plus some tips on use. Some of it may be useful to some folks as well.
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.c ... 843#116618
For that reason, the flammability, and fumes of acetone I prefer to use denatured alcohol for cleaning parts before pressing. I’ve seen others state that alcohol can leave a film, but I have had no issues with that so far. It seems to evaporate off the parts just fine. I know alcohol is flammable also just not to the degree that acetone can be, and the fumes are alcohol and far less offensive IMO.
I’m hesitant to post stuff like this. I just don’t want to seem condescending, negative or be a know-it-all. I put this up here because I believe most people may not know about these types of issues with the products we use.
Bambi good luck with your project.
Hafte
I use MEK here at PM gear. It is nasty stuff, but it will remove all the grease. Beware it even eats safety glasses! I think this is the stuff that Roy of QCM epoxy recomended.
As far as I know denatured alcohol does leave some residue. But I've not had any problems with the skis I've made using it as a cleaning agent.
hafte - very good point - I've met a few folks that have become sensitized to epoxies. But I think using any solvent or epoxy without gloves is stupid.
As far as I know denatured alcohol does leave some residue. But I've not had any problems with the skis I've made using it as a cleaning agent.
hafte - very good point - I've met a few folks that have become sensitized to epoxies. But I think using any solvent or epoxy without gloves is stupid.
No real damage done - I saw it melting and stopped using it immediately - because it evaporates so quickly there was only a very small area affected and it was just surface damage.
Generally the layup went well. I have the following observations on layup:
1) Alignment: I used 2 small dowels to align the core to the base which worked really well. Drill 2 holes in the core, glue 2 dowels to the base to fit into the core when aligned correctly. It is a bit fiddly to find the position because you can't see the dowels or holes when putting the core down during layup, but then everything was locked together without the need to nail or glue things to the mold. The great thing was that the dowels were small enough to push through the fiberglass weave rather than having to cut a hole.
2) Epoxy: I was using the QCM 0049 stuff and it was really thick / lumpy out of the tin. Is this how it should be? I expected it to be thinner. Anyone got any experience with this particular epoxy?
3) Epoxy had bubbles which I could not/did not remove. I don't know how this will effect the integrity of the ski...
4) 1.5 KW custom silicon heater placed under the ski got up to a temp of 110 celcius easily. Top mold part was only about 10 degrees less so I don't think that there is really any need for a heater on top as well. (the hose insulates everything).
I should do a build log when I get a second...
B.
Generally the layup went well. I have the following observations on layup:
1) Alignment: I used 2 small dowels to align the core to the base which worked really well. Drill 2 holes in the core, glue 2 dowels to the base to fit into the core when aligned correctly. It is a bit fiddly to find the position because you can't see the dowels or holes when putting the core down during layup, but then everything was locked together without the need to nail or glue things to the mold. The great thing was that the dowels were small enough to push through the fiberglass weave rather than having to cut a hole.
2) Epoxy: I was using the QCM 0049 stuff and it was really thick / lumpy out of the tin. Is this how it should be? I expected it to be thinner. Anyone got any experience with this particular epoxy?
3) Epoxy had bubbles which I could not/did not remove. I don't know how this will effect the integrity of the ski...
4) 1.5 KW custom silicon heater placed under the ski got up to a temp of 110 celcius easily. Top mold part was only about 10 degrees less so I don't think that there is really any need for a heater on top as well. (the hose insulates everything).
I should do a build log when I get a second...
B.