A new press is born
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- MontuckyMadman
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For the graphic, I bought rice paper from www.rice-paper.com. I taped the edges of the rice paper to a standard sheet of paper and then ran it through the printer. I added the logo after sanding the whole board down and then stuck it on during a polyurethane coat. It looks great except there is a slight sheen difference. I have only done 1 coat; more coats may help it blend in better. Or maybe using less glossy polyurethane.
- MontuckyMadman
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- Posts: 2337
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- Location: Western Mass, USA
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COsurfer - Thanks. I like the ability to put a graphic on after. If you put it on first during the layup and the top sheet shifts at all, the graphic will be off. If I had killer cassettes the shifting wouldn't be a problem, but.... not yet.
Also like the light glass over the veneer idea, offers a little bit more protection.
So you used poly as the glue? Will have to test it out. Thanks.
Also like the light glass over the veneer idea, offers a little bit more protection.
So you used poly as the glue? Will have to test it out. Thanks.
- MontuckyMadman
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Boards may not have the same chipping problem as skis in certain spots but after about 50 days the tips where the veneer is, is pretty worn just from the abrasion of snow I think. The same amount of wear you would expect for 3 seasons worth of use with a plastic topsheet I could surmise.
I think the light glass top will help protect the veneer more in these areas as well as a logo placement.
I have found that the bloodwood or paduk is really chipping easily so a light glass would be imperative if I would use that again.
I hope it comes out transparent.
I think the light glass top will help protect the veneer more in these areas as well as a logo placement.
I have found that the bloodwood or paduk is really chipping easily so a light glass would be imperative if I would use that again.
I hope it comes out transparent.
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light glass in those wear areas is a good idea. What about some heat moldable plastic molded over and epoxied in place.
At work we use a heat moldable plastic that you soak in hot water to make custom splints. It comes in lots of different colors and can be stretched to make it very thin. Something like this would be easy to fabricate and make the abrasion on the tips much less. There night even be a clear version. Kind of like you see with custom face masks on guys that have broken noses.
At work we use a heat moldable plastic that you soak in hot water to make custom splints. It comes in lots of different colors and can be stretched to make it very thin. Something like this would be easy to fabricate and make the abrasion on the tips much less. There night even be a clear version. Kind of like you see with custom face masks on guys that have broken noses.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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Funny, that's actually exactly what I was thinking.falls wrote:Mostly when skis run into or over your board!most of the chipping on skis is from you guys knocking your skis together. The only time boards get chipped is on the lift.
Skiers tend to pay no attention to whether their skis are hitting our boards. I think it's a passive aggressive thing.
I had one guy last year that kept putting his skis on my board in line. After a few shuffles forward and him doing the same thing, I put him in his place.
This was in line for ch. 2 at alpy, which is already a seething mass of frustration. I have never been in or seen more near fist fights than in that line.
For those that don't know, it's a slow double that accesses the best steepest terrain in North America. Lines on weekend pow days can easily stretch in to the forty five minute realm.
I was looking at this stuff...
It's called Durafilm and I think it would work perfectly, 2nd post , can't paste a link so here it is : monosol. com/ brands .php?p=13