heat controller wiring for sub press
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heat controller wiring for sub press
Hey guys.
I have a sublimation press in the works. Just about got this bad boy done. I'm hoping I can get some advice from the guys that know electricity.
The posts from Brazen and Nightmare were absolutely key. Thanks guys.
I am having some electrical issues. The heat blanket is a bit more powerful than what most of us use in our presses. I have a 4000w blanket heating up a 1/2 plate of aluminum. It converts to 18amps at 220V
The problem I'm having is that it is blowing fuses. The controller is based on happy monkey, but uses 1 pid and blanket.
I'm using 2 fuses:
Coming in after the switch (before ssr and pid) tried 20amp and 30amp
Going into the heat blanket (after ssr and pid) 20 amp
My outlet is good for 40 amps.
I'm blowing the fuses before the pid and ssr. After both 20 and 30 amp.
The fuses stay on for a few minutes and the blanket heats up for a while, but then they poop out. With the 30 amp it got up to 150c turned on and off a few times then blew.
Is the PID and and SSR consuming that much current? (An extra 10 amps)?
I'll post up my build notes for everyone to benefit
. It really isnt' too technical, but the project does take some jing.
I have a sublimation press in the works. Just about got this bad boy done. I'm hoping I can get some advice from the guys that know electricity.
The posts from Brazen and Nightmare were absolutely key. Thanks guys.
I am having some electrical issues. The heat blanket is a bit more powerful than what most of us use in our presses. I have a 4000w blanket heating up a 1/2 plate of aluminum. It converts to 18amps at 220V
The problem I'm having is that it is blowing fuses. The controller is based on happy monkey, but uses 1 pid and blanket.
I'm using 2 fuses:
Coming in after the switch (before ssr and pid) tried 20amp and 30amp
Going into the heat blanket (after ssr and pid) 20 amp
My outlet is good for 40 amps.
I'm blowing the fuses before the pid and ssr. After both 20 and 30 amp.
The fuses stay on for a few minutes and the blanket heats up for a while, but then they poop out. With the 30 amp it got up to 150c turned on and off a few times then blew.
Is the PID and and SSR consuming that much current? (An extra 10 amps)?
I'll post up my build notes for everyone to benefit
. It really isnt' too technical, but the project does take some jing.
We have snowboard and kiteboard build kits!
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The fuse circled in blue is the one that blows as the temp ramps up close to the target temp.
Forgot to label that the blanket is at 18amps.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 7516_n.jpg
Forgot to label that the blanket is at 18amps.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 7516_n.jpg
Last edited by prospectsnow on Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I too am not an electrician.
I'm going take that fuse out. I think it will be fine.
I have a line going to ground that I didn't include.
I don't have the box in front of me. other than that ground I think that is the wire up. Am I missing something?
I followed the schematic on the how to page
http://skibuilders.com/articles/heatedpress.shtml
I'm going take that fuse out. I think it will be fine.
I have a line going to ground that I didn't include.
I don't have the box in front of me. other than that ground I think that is the wire up. Am I missing something?
I followed the schematic on the how to page
http://skibuilders.com/articles/heatedpress.shtml
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It looks like there is a wire missing associated with the SSR. The SSR should be placed in one of the legs of the high voltage current. Then the PID's control breaks and completes the high voltage circuit for the blanket. You show a wire leaving the SSR to the blanket, and one returning from the blanket to your contactor, but no connection from the wire with your 30 amp fuse to the SSR.
The high voltage current shouldn't run through your PID to the SSR.
The high voltage current shouldn't run through your PID to the SSR.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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Yeah my diagram is wrong. Sorry guys. I appreciate the help. Took a closer look this is how im wired.
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Mine is wired like your freehand sketch. I have just one fuse in the same position as your 30A fuse. Never blown a fuse.
Either you are drawing more than 30A or the fuses aren't what they are meant to be.
The only other thing is that you can get fast blow and slow blow fuses for the same amp rating. Maybe a different type of 30A fuse might be better?
Either you are drawing more than 30A or the fuses aren't what they are meant to be.
The only other thing is that you can get fast blow and slow blow fuses for the same amp rating. Maybe a different type of 30A fuse might be better?
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
I think I am using slow blow fuses from memory after discussion with electrician (marked with a T rather than an F for fast).
They will allow some excess current for a short time before blowing.
The only thing is that your setup shouldn't be drawing 30A at all.
They will allow some excess current for a short time before blowing.
The only thing is that your setup shouldn't be drawing 30A at all.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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I pulled the 30 amp fuse. I'm not blowing fuses anymore, but I'm
Now I am getting a strange electrical click/spark sound.
Thinking it is overloading my 25amp SSR and should upgrade to 40amp?
Troublemaker, Yes. 240, 2 hot wires, and both do go into the PID. I'm not sure what you mean by fusing them. Can you be more specific?
Falls, I am using a slow blow fuse now as well. It seems to help.
Posts are a sloppy. My shop computer is down at the moment so none of this stuff is in front of me to see. Thanks guys.
Now I am getting a strange electrical click/spark sound.
Thinking it is overloading my 25amp SSR and should upgrade to 40amp?
Troublemaker, Yes. 240, 2 hot wires, and both do go into the PID. I'm not sure what you mean by fusing them. Can you be more specific?
Falls, I am using a slow blow fuse now as well. It seems to help.
Posts are a sloppy. My shop computer is down at the moment so none of this stuff is in front of me to see. Thanks guys.
We have snowboard and kiteboard build kits!
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I got some answers from a bud that is an electrician.
The short, just over engineer the circuit. 40amp SSR, heavier wire, and no need for that fuse that was blowing.
Some explanation:
As wires and circuit heats up resistance goes up as well so it takes more amps to power.
The heat also causes disimilar metals to expand and contract at different rates.
Conclusion:
The heavier wire will keep the circuit low temp and won't draw extra current.
The 40 amp SSR will take the inefficiencies since it is built tougher.
Sparking sound is basically caused at the joints. Either I didn't tighten it down well enough or the heat is causing the materials to not conduct well enough. Probably making extra resistance, extra heat, extra current load.
Anyone have anything to add?
The short, just over engineer the circuit. 40amp SSR, heavier wire, and no need for that fuse that was blowing.
Some explanation:
As wires and circuit heats up resistance goes up as well so it takes more amps to power.
The heat also causes disimilar metals to expand and contract at different rates.
Conclusion:
The heavier wire will keep the circuit low temp and won't draw extra current.
The 40 amp SSR will take the inefficiencies since it is built tougher.
Sparking sound is basically caused at the joints. Either I didn't tighten it down well enough or the heat is causing the materials to not conduct well enough. Probably making extra resistance, extra heat, extra current load.
Anyone have anything to add?
We have snowboard and kiteboard build kits!
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
https://prtahoe.com/collections/build-kits
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