Need some help with cores!
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
They're using a hand held planner - I think.
Have you isolated the router and run a test? find an old plank, a couple of feet long and set a guide using a small strip of wood. Cut a shallow depth against the strip, start at 1 mm and check whether you get a consistent cut. Look at the quality of the cut. Move the strip back and repeat. Increase the depth of the cut until you release the maximum cut depth for this cutter.
This should help you isolate the issue from the jig and assumes the router is working just fine. Play around using a simple jig until you work it out, check the speed at which you are attempting to cut.
I would hold on to things built in the 70's, if its not at fault, then it was obviously built to last.
Happy to help Sammer! Btw, have you looked at carbon heating film? I manufacturer might send a sample. A dimmer switch and a plug should be all you need for a low wattage film.
Saw you journal MR - stella result!
Have you isolated the router and run a test? find an old plank, a couple of feet long and set a guide using a small strip of wood. Cut a shallow depth against the strip, start at 1 mm and check whether you get a consistent cut. Look at the quality of the cut. Move the strip back and repeat. Increase the depth of the cut until you release the maximum cut depth for this cutter.
This should help you isolate the issue from the jig and assumes the router is working just fine. Play around using a simple jig until you work it out, check the speed at which you are attempting to cut.
I would hold on to things built in the 70's, if its not at fault, then it was obviously built to last.
Happy to help Sammer! Btw, have you looked at carbon heating film? I manufacturer might send a sample. A dimmer switch and a plug should be all you need for a low wattage film.
Saw you journal MR - stella result!
Last edited by Richuk on Mon Apr 08, 2013 4:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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for now while testing doing only pine.Richuk wrote:Happy to help Sammer! Btw, have you looked at carbon heating film?
It's a hand planner BYSkier. Saw you journal MR - stella result! How much are you taking off in one pass?
1/16" to 3/16" tried 1/4" without problems. Wouldn't do 1/4 on actual core so
not all older routers have variable speed option. Speed is very impotent. 1 1/2" diameter router bit should go on 10000 to 12,000 RPMs. BYSkier you can get variable speed controller in any woodworking store even at HF toolsYeah, if the router is running smooth after 30 years and is fine on other jobs, it was obviously built to last, unlike the Ryobi. "Quality tools are hard to find"
My first core looked like that. I added double sticky tape to the bottom of the core to hold it super flat (peel off caaaarefully) and realized I was putting my weight on the router when arms were extended. This is especially easy to do when working on the floor.
Sammer-- you always offer good takes...i love the simplicity of those rails!
Sammer-- you always offer good takes...i love the simplicity of those rails!
- backyardskier
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Yes there is no speed controller on it, I'm going to set up another test run sometime soon with beefed up rails and double stick tape to hold down the core. If that doesnt work I will be trying my luck on a planer crib and running it through a table saw.Speed is very impotent. 1 1/2" diameter router bit should go on 10000 to 12,000 RPMs. BYSkier you can get variable speed controller in any woodworking store even at HF tools
If your router isn't a fancy soft start, buy this. http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... 43060.html
I wouldn't use double sided tape to hold your core down. The extra thickness even if its 1/10mm will make a difference.backyardskier wrote: I'm going to set up another test run sometime soon with beefed up rails and double stick tape to hold down the core. If that doesnt work I will be trying my luck on a planer crib and running it through a table saw.
A good bead of hot glue around your tip and tail and spots along the edges will hold it more securely.
Use a razor knife or chisel to cut the glue when your done.
I don't think I would trust the bond of double sided tape with the high frequency vibrations and lifting force of the router.
Plus if it does bond really good you may break your newly profiled core getting it off the bench.
As always YMMV, yadda yadda yadda.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
- backyardskier
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Glue the perimeter not underneath.backyardskier wrote:Sammer the hot glue I have when I use it leaves a pretty thick drop around .5 - 1.00 mm thats why I'm thinking double sided tape.
Clamp your cores down so they are perfectly flat then glue around the edge, once the glue hardens remove your clamps.
I just hold it down with my hand and work slowly.
Don't worry if your bead of glue is higher than your finished core your router won't even know it's there.
Also the glue from double sided tape is a bear to remove.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
- backyardskier
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You'd do far better to get that one serviced and spend the leftovers buying some quality bits than to spend the same money or more buying a cheap POS, in my opinion.backyardskier wrote:Also just to show you guys the router, I will be buying a new one soon this thing is too old in my opinion and the bit is only a quarter inch collet. Also looked it up it is from the 60s.
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From appearance the router looks sound. If you're profiling cores with that router you may be asking a bit too much from it. I would check if the router bit is travelling. I have a Craftsman 1/4 bit. It's not as old as yours, bought it in the early 90's and it served me well. But what started to happen is the depth adjustment on the base of the router would no longer stay tight and the depth of the bit would change as I would route out the material and you know that's not good I would check if that's the case.
Also any flexing at all in the sled will cause uneven cutting. Even a cheap bit could cause that as well. A cheap bit can be unbalanced and wobble. Trouble shoot the cheap things first before dropping $$ on a 1/2 router.
Also any flexing at all in the sled will cause uneven cutting. Even a cheap bit could cause that as well. A cheap bit can be unbalanced and wobble. Trouble shoot the cheap things first before dropping $$ on a 1/2 router.
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power planer style core work, like building surfboard cores.
Jigsaw'd template, razorbladed base, it doesnt get any more raw.
The raddest part is its in innsbruck, and Schlick 2000 is also my own personal favorite resort, probably because when I was there I scored bottomless pow in the out of bounds areas. I'll have to pay these guys a visit.
Jigsaw'd template, razorbladed base, it doesnt get any more raw.
The raddest part is its in innsbruck, and Schlick 2000 is also my own personal favorite resort, probably because when I was there I scored bottomless pow in the out of bounds areas. I'll have to pay these guys a visit.
Doug
- backyardskier
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I think he's talking about using a power planer like in richuks video.backyardskier wrote:What do you mean power planer?knightsofnii wrote:power planer style core work, like building surfboard cores.
.
Still haven't figured out how you would adjust the depth.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
- MontuckyMadman
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