Ski building pics
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I'm in the same range as Sam. ~4.25-4.5 lbs (~2kg give or take a little) for a ski in the 183-185 range at 107-110 under foot.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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No real magic to it. I will use some tape and tape the excess part of the top sheet down to the cassette in a couple spots or use tape to hold the layup together. Just be sure the tape is on the flashing so it gets cut off in the finishing stage. Also you don't want to have too much epoxy resin to cause the top sheet to slide around. If you're using a pneumatic press, pressurize it slowly so things don't shift.
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i refuse to make graphics with any type of perimeter work that has to be precise with respect to any edge. Pretty much also given up on twin tip type mirrored graphics. the more random it is, the less one notices any shift or loss of anything important.
Still have to align the topsheet, but I plan ahead for shifting and make graphics that dont care about it
Still have to align the topsheet, but I plan ahead for shifting and make graphics that dont care about it
Doug
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That's my philosophy too. I make a center mark on my topsheets so at least they line up between the two skis, but I never do anything that I would care too much if it shifted.knightsofnii wrote:i refuse to make graphics with any type of perimeter work that has to be precise with respect to any edge.
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if you dont wanna build casettes, then center mark everything length and width wise,
and I'm going to try a lazer level type thing from the ceiling.
we lose a lot of time trying to center stuff, but dont make enough of the same board to warrant any kind of casette registry stuff, especially when building protos, etc.
and I'm going to try a lazer level type thing from the ceiling.
we lose a lot of time trying to center stuff, but dont make enough of the same board to warrant any kind of casette registry stuff, especially when building protos, etc.
Doug