Anyone have any tips on how to make one of these?
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- backyardskier
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:26 am
As of right now my plan is making a vacuum camber to be used with a shop vac and make a few holes to hold the core down on the table which will be 3/4 mdf. It will be support under the table to keep the vac camber and the rest of it rigid.
For the runners I'm thinking square metal bars that will be bolted down on opposites ends and in-between will be kind of free floating. I'm going to cut a bunch of blocks ranging from 2mm - 12mm and these will be placed under the metal and held in position by either taped or glue.
For the router sled going to use the scrap mdf and place some metal on the underside to help it slide on the metal bars as well for extra support.
This is just a rough plan as I get started I know things will change, but my goal is to make a table that is quick to set up for different cores.
Trying to get away from the sled and planer method which i find eats to much time trying to set up a sled each time for a new core.
For the runners I'm thinking square metal bars that will be bolted down on opposites ends and in-between will be kind of free floating. I'm going to cut a bunch of blocks ranging from 2mm - 12mm and these will be placed under the metal and held in position by either taped or glue.
For the router sled going to use the scrap mdf and place some metal on the underside to help it slide on the metal bars as well for extra support.
This is just a rough plan as I get started I know things will change, but my goal is to make a table that is quick to set up for different cores.
Trying to get away from the sled and planer method which i find eats to much time trying to set up a sled each time for a new core.
This is what I've been doing since the beginning, 'cept my rails are mdf.backyardskier wrote:
For the runners I'm thinking square metal bars that will be bolted down on opposites ends and in-between will be kind of free floating.
I'm going to cut a bunch of blocks ranging from 2mm - 12mm and these will be placed under the metal and held in position by either taped or glue.
Really quick to change profiles.
Just make sure your router bit is long enough to reach.
Lets us know how it works with metal.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
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- Posts: 712
- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:32 pm
- Location: USA
a lot of interesting ideas
https://www.google.com/search?q=router+ ... 5#imgdii=_
Probably the best. A little on the pricey side to biuld . Imo well worth it considering time and money spent on unsuccessful versions.
https://www.google.com/search?q=router+ ... 5#imgdii=_
https://www.google.com/search?q=router+ ... 5#imgdii=_
Probably the best. A little on the pricey side to biuld . Imo well worth it considering time and money spent on unsuccessful versions.
https://www.google.com/search?q=router+ ... 5#imgdii=_
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
Thomas A. Edison
Thomas A. Edison
- backyardskier
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 10:26 am
Those two links brought me to the same page.MadRussian wrote:a lot of interesting ideas
https://www.google.com/search?q=router+ ... 5#imgdii=_
Probably the best. A little on the pricey side to biuld . Imo well worth it considering time and money spent on unsuccessful versions.
https://www.google.com/search?q=router+ ... 5#imgdii=_
I'm liking this set up for the sled.
Just went to the store and checked out some 1-1/4 in. x 72 in. Solid Flat, Galvanized steel. Did a little testing in the store put two supports about 6" apart and pushed down on it seemed pretty solid. With no support the metal is very flexible. Going to search around for some other options maybe some 1/5" thick.
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- Posts: 712
- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:32 pm
- Location: USA
here more
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/305 ... arge-slabs
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992
http://shelf3d.com/8aWze4UM32U#Woodhave ... ng%20Sleds
http://shelf3d.com/LKPcAajMuSw#Woodhave ... ing%20Sled
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtur ... -skis.html
I would say for the bridge Woodhaven sled probably the best. you'll safe a lot of time and effort
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/305 ... arge-slabs
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992
http://shelf3d.com/8aWze4UM32U#Woodhave ... ng%20Sleds
http://shelf3d.com/LKPcAajMuSw#Woodhave ... ing%20Sled
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtur ... -skis.html
I would say for the bridge Woodhaven sled probably the best. you'll safe a lot of time and effort
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
Thomas A. Edison
Thomas A. Edison
I have made mine using 40 x 8mm flat bar as the long guides. This allowed me to put roller bearings above, below and outside the bar. The bridge is made from aluminium angle, its nice and rigid and allowed me to make teflon slides top and bottom and bearings along the inside edge. So I end up with a fully ball raced profiler.
It actually rolls around so well that i am going to fit some nylon screws as drag points.
The base i made into a vacuum table and with just my girlfriends Dyson vacuum it holds cores down so well you can kick the core and the whole table moves with it. Lots of small holes work better than a channel I think. It creates smaller surface area around the leaks so therefore the air speed is higher at those points and sucks down harder.
Also dont use plane MDF, that stuff is nearly as porous as an air filter element. I made a pressure chamber from that stuff and it leaks through the wood as fast as my compressor can feed it.
If you use the stuff with the smooth bench top like coating (not sure its proper name) you will get much better success. Seriously I can hold down a piece of pine with a handle on it and can lift my whole profile table off the ground.
I am still getting the message saying I cant post picturrs yet but hopefully this afternoon I might be able to put something up.
It actually rolls around so well that i am going to fit some nylon screws as drag points.
The base i made into a vacuum table and with just my girlfriends Dyson vacuum it holds cores down so well you can kick the core and the whole table moves with it. Lots of small holes work better than a channel I think. It creates smaller surface area around the leaks so therefore the air speed is higher at those points and sucks down harder.
Also dont use plane MDF, that stuff is nearly as porous as an air filter element. I made a pressure chamber from that stuff and it leaks through the wood as fast as my compressor can feed it.
If you use the stuff with the smooth bench top like coating (not sure its proper name) you will get much better success. Seriously I can hold down a piece of pine with a handle on it and can lift my whole profile table off the ground.
I am still getting the message saying I cant post picturrs yet but hopefully this afternoon I might be able to put something up.
it's letting me add photos now
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In these photos I had only drilled rows of holes to hold down a short core for a sandboard. It gives me something small to test everything out with as I'm only just starting out and materials are pretty expensive to get here in Western Australia. I also hadn't fitted the last bearings that fit under the long rails and hold the bridge from lifting, I then don't need to push down on it at all.
I have a length of 18mm MDF under the flat bar, and then I just use thin washers to pack it up through the middle, it's then easy to put the same number of washers under matching bolts on both sides, takes about 10 minutes to change settings to a totally different core profile.
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In these photos I had only drilled rows of holes to hold down a short core for a sandboard. It gives me something small to test everything out with as I'm only just starting out and materials are pretty expensive to get here in Western Australia. I also hadn't fitted the last bearings that fit under the long rails and hold the bridge from lifting, I then don't need to push down on it at all.
I have a length of 18mm MDF under the flat bar, and then I just use thin washers to pack it up through the middle, it's then easy to put the same number of washers under matching bolts on both sides, takes about 10 minutes to change settings to a totally different core profile.
Last edited by gav wa on Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
The only sheet I had handy was only 600mm long so I wasn't getting a full pull down but it still had enough grip to pull the table over.
It's a pretty heavy set up, 35mm bench top piece as the table top, then the vac box arrangement but you can see it holds a piece of wood pretty well.
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It's a pretty heavy set up, 35mm bench top piece as the table top, then the vac box arrangement but you can see it holds a piece of wood pretty well.
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