Secretly, I do watch it and I blame my girlfriend for it.
I use a small metal clip/clamp thingy to stop the left right movement when routing. I then move it over a tiny bit and repeat. Chuck one on each side. and see what you think.
That other one looks really nice man, proud of you
You aussies crack me up.
Gav posts like i used to. Less angry than me.
Hey knights i use 3/4 inch bit and i can take off 3 mm easily at a pass parralell fiishing toolpath, takes 15 min per core 150mm x 1640mm at 6000mm per min. I use a 90percent stepover. Cores are perfect ready to press after i sand sidewall of course and flame.
Ok so I took your guys advice and decided to make a new core, so we just glued on the sidewalls and hopefully be profiling them soon! Also put the edges on my bases while I am waiting for the epoxy to dry.
Now just be VERY careful and take your time with this new core. You'll hate us all if you wreck it Remember the tips - climb milling, shallow passes, as rigid a bridge as possible, etc etc.
Also I have a quick question for graphics. We are skecthing it out on normal printer paper, but it is a big piece. So if I dont want the core to show through do I have to paint the back of the paper white? Also can we paint in our sketch with markers or paint, or is there a specific thing that only will bond. Also we will use a topsheet on top of it too. So what do I do to get the crispest image and best adhesion ????
infinityskis wrote:Ok another question. Can I use 1/4 in plywood on top of my mold to get rid of any wavyness(which there is) or would that not work ??
What sort of waviness are you talking about? The mold should be even across it's width. Any imperfections will come through even with some ply on top.
infinityskis wrote:Ok another question. Can I use 1/4 in plywood on top of my mold to get rid of any wavyness(which there is) or would that not work ??
1/4 inch plywood is too thick/stiff. Perhaps 1/8in (or the thinnest you can find) hardboard/mdf will work ok. I used hardboard at one time. It may crack in the tip area depending on how tight the tip radius is. Not using a cat track?
Remind me - are you doing a firehose press, or vacuum?
If vacuum, some 1/8 hardwood or a thicker cassette may be enough. Although the vacuum may not be strong enough to pull those material down into the mold ribs, you'd need to fix the wood down to the ribs first, and pre-bend the cassette metal.
If you're doing a firehose, any imperfections in your mold will show up in your skis. I know some people do open rib molds in firehose presses, but I'm of the opinion that your molds should be solid with no gaps. Just like your core profiling, this is a case where you want to take your time to do it right. Smooth out your mold until it's perfect. This is even more important, as you may want to use this mold for many pairs, so get it right this first time and it'll be ready to go for follow-on pairs.