mounting
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
-
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
Have you ever mounted bindings before? Find a ski shop that will show you how. It's not hard, but you need the right screws.
I just drill, put a drop of wood glue in each hole, and screw them on. But you have to have a good template for the bindings, and a way to get them at the right location, etc.
I just drill, put a drop of wood glue in each hole, and screw them on. But you have to have a good template for the bindings, and a way to get them at the right location, etc.
-
- Posts: 2337
- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
- Contact:
Whether you use inserts or not a good template is a must. Check the links below. They sell inserts you can use after pressing and have templates for certain bindings. fyi - I have not used the inserts myself but will be doing so in the future.
http://www.quiverkiller.com/
http://bindingfreedom.com/main.sc
http://www.quiverkiller.com/
http://bindingfreedom.com/main.sc
-
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
A set of paper templates:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/show ... -Templates and or http://www.techinfo.bindingfreedom.com/ ... lates.html
In the absence of the correct template, use a graphics program and plot the screws, use a micrometer if you have one. Trial the new template on a piece of scrap wood, not mdf. Adjust the paper template as you go and then once the indicators on the bindings are correctly positioned. Test the result.
Personally, once I am happy with the paper template, transfer it to a metal template - 3 mm AL appears to work. Although, double-sided tape and a cardboard template would be quicker and sufficiently robust ...
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/show ... -Templates and or http://www.techinfo.bindingfreedom.com/ ... lates.html
In the absence of the correct template, use a graphics program and plot the screws, use a micrometer if you have one. Trial the new template on a piece of scrap wood, not mdf. Adjust the paper template as you go and then once the indicators on the bindings are correctly positioned. Test the result.
Personally, once I am happy with the paper template, transfer it to a metal template - 3 mm AL appears to work. Although, double-sided tape and a cardboard template would be quicker and sufficiently robust ...
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
-
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
Normal clear packing tape works great too if you have an older pair of skis to use as a guide. Tape on the old skis, mark dots with a sharpie, move to new skis, and drill. Only tricky part is getting the tape perfectly centered side-to-side. I was never able to get bindings perfectly centered... inserts fix that for me
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
I use plexiglass for binding templates also. Measure 3 times dril once
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
This photo shows my binding mounting drill jig in action. Mid-sole mark and centerlines are measured and drawn on blue painters tape. A polycarbonate template is located on the ski and fixed in place using some double-sticky masking tape. Holes in this plastic part are used to visually locate it with respect to the marks on the blue tape. Then an aluminum drill block is positioned over either the heel (as shown) or toe mounting holes and is firmly clamped in place. A drill stop is fixed onto a drill bit (3.5mm diameter) so the drill will penetrate precisely 9.5mm into the ski. I’ve used this set-up a dozen times with excellent results. I plan to remake the whole thing one of these days using steel rather than aluminum, and with two drill blocks both permanently fastened to the plastic piece.
Remember to use a torque limiting screwdriver to set your screw gun's clutch to 4 nm, unless you're mounting BD tele bindings, then ramp it up to 10 nm.
If you're mounting an alpine set up you probably also want to...
Be sure and check your forward pressure once the mount is complete. Then you should probably sneak into the back of your favorite shop, hop on their mount bench and do the torque test on your new set up (underhand grip!). Remember to bring a boot.
Or you could just buy your own set-up for just under 4K.
Or you could make friends with your local shop folks and let them do the whole job for you for a few bucks. You've got untold amounts of money invested in your builds, not to mention the countless hours. Why not spend a few dollars more and know that your latest and greatest are properly mounted, with some well functioning clamps?
Shop folks will also be willing to talk mounting positions with you as well.
Just saying.
If you're mounting an alpine set up you probably also want to...
Be sure and check your forward pressure once the mount is complete. Then you should probably sneak into the back of your favorite shop, hop on their mount bench and do the torque test on your new set up (underhand grip!). Remember to bring a boot.
Or you could just buy your own set-up for just under 4K.
Or you could make friends with your local shop folks and let them do the whole job for you for a few bucks. You've got untold amounts of money invested in your builds, not to mention the countless hours. Why not spend a few dollars more and know that your latest and greatest are properly mounted, with some well functioning clamps?
Shop folks will also be willing to talk mounting positions with you as well.
Just saying.