mounting

redddd · Post by **redddd** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:16 am

skis are done, came out great for the first pair. little stiff but definitely not too off. time to mount.

i did not use inserts in my core, what is the best way to mount?

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:32 am

Have you ever mounted bindings before? Find a ski shop that will show you how. It's not hard, but you need the right screws.

I just drill, put a drop of wood glue in each hole, and screw them on. But you have to have a good template for the bindings, and a way to get them at the right location, etc.

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:18 am

Whether you use inserts or not a good template is a must. Check the links below. They sell inserts you can use after pressing and have templates for certain bindings. fyi - I have not used the inserts myself but will be doing so in the future.

http://www.quiverkiller.com/
http://bindingfreedom.com/main.sc

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:42 am

There is a thread on the TGR forum with a bunch of nice templates you can print out too, I've come across it a few times with google searches.

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:48 am

strange you have now made skis but never mounted your own skis. very odd....
1)drill holes
2)screw on binding

Richuk · Post by **Richuk** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:54 am

A set of paper templates:

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/show ... -Templates and or http://www.techinfo.bindingfreedom.com/ ... lates.html

In the absence of the correct template, use a graphics program and plot the screws, use a micrometer if you have one. Trial the new template on a piece of scrap wood, not mdf. Adjust the paper template as you go and then once the indicators on the bindings are correctly positioned. Test the result.

Personally, once I am happy with the paper template, transfer it to a metal template - 3 mm AL appears to work. Although, double-sided tape and a cardboard template would be quicker and sufficiently robust ...

redddd · Post by **redddd** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:01 am

thanks, i made a template from a pair of skis i had and used some wood glue and screwed them in. and yeah, ive had it done at shops in the past but i figured if i were going to make my own skis i might as well learn how to mount them

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:38 am

I make templates from clear acrylic so I can see my marks/tape on the ski for alignment

twizzstyle · Post by **twizzstyle** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 12:16 pm

Normal clear packing tape works great too if you have an older pair of skis to use as a guide. Tape on the old skis, mark dots with a sharpie, move to new skis, and drill. Only tricky part is getting the tape perfectly centered side-to-side. I was never able to get bindings perfectly centered... inserts fix that for me

Richuk · Post by **Richuk** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 12:19 pm

A better material MM - I'm recycling my mistakes!

deepskis · Post by **deepskis** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 1:20 pm

MontuckyMadman wrote:I make templates from clear acrylic so I can see my marks/tape on the ski for alignment

Thats clever MM

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 2:15 pm

ooooo..... another medal?
I got some tricks in my baggie.

vinman · Post by **vinman** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 2:52 pm

I use plexiglass for binding templates also. Measure 3 times dril once

SHIF · Post by **SHIF** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:31 pm

This photo shows my binding mounting drill jig in action. Mid-sole mark and centerlines are measured and drawn on blue painters tape. A polycarbonate template is located on the ski and fixed in place using some double-sticky masking tape. Holes in this plastic part are used to visually locate it with respect to the marks on the blue tape. Then an aluminum drill block is positioned over either the heel (as shown) or toe mounting holes and is firmly clamped in place. A drill stop is fixed onto a drill bit (3.5mm diameter) so the drill will penetrate precisely 9.5mm into the ski. I’ve used this set-up a dozen times with excellent results. I plan to remake the whole thing one of these days using steel rather than aluminum, and with two drill blocks both permanently fastened to the plastic piece.

barnboy · Post by **barnboy** » Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:33 am

Remember to use a torque limiting screwdriver to set your screw gun's clutch to 4 nm, unless you're mounting BD tele bindings, then ramp it up to 10 nm.

If you're mounting an alpine set up you probably also want to...

Be sure and check your forward pressure once the mount is complete. Then you should probably sneak into the back of your favorite shop, hop on their mount bench and do the torque test on your new set up (underhand grip!). Remember to bring a boot.

Or you could just buy your own set-up for just under 4K.

Or you could make friends with your local shop folks and let them do the whole job for you for a few bucks. You've got untold amounts of money invested in your builds, not to mention the countless hours. Why not spend a few dollars more and know that your latest and greatest are properly mounted, with some well functioning clamps?

Shop folks will also be willing to talk mounting positions with you as well.

Just saying.

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mounting

mounting